Tail Boom Saver

[MAXXED]

Plasti-blades are great and last forever under the most abusive conditions, but they have a downside.
The extra weight and solid plastic structure can be a tail boom eating ginsu knife on crashes and tail boom strikes.
After severing a few tail booms in half, I came up with a quick fix.
I happened to have some 1/4" silicone tubing lying around, but you could also use 1/4" automotive or vacuum line tubing.
I cut three "o-rings" from the tubing, and slit them. I positioned them right where the blades would hit on a boom strike and CA'ed them in place.
While testing them out in the prototype stage (not on purpose! :lol: ), I had a minor crash in my shop, and launched one of the "o-rings" into orbit.
No damage at all to the tail boom!
If you're rebuilding or installing a new tail boom, I would cut the "o-rings" and slide them onto the tail boom, rather than slitting them and putting them on after you're done, like I did, then CA them in place.
If you look closely, you'll see CA between the "o-rings". That's a patch repair to a previous tail boom strike, so I knew exactly where the main blades would hit.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/airshop/tailboomsaver01.jpg

Here's a closeup of exactly where the main blades would hit on a boom strike. You can ell my Plasti-blades have some mileage and "war-wounds" on them. :lol:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b239/airshop/tailboomsaver-impactzone.jpg

The tail boom saver may also work on saving the stock wood blades or other types of blades, as they may glance off and be deflected by the soft rubber surface of the tail boom saver.
I could have just used a single piece of tubing, but in the interest of saving weight (they weigh practically nothing at all) and for a great conversation opener, the three rings worked out perfectly. :)

[Sleepstalker]

Thanxxx Maxxed thats some good info... 8)

[eddiemoth]

Great info and it is easy to do! Thanks

[imflyn]

Thanks for the info. I have had tremendous success with another method. I too am using plastic blades that often cause great damage to the boom. To mitigate the force transmitted to the boom, I used ducktape to attach a wood cylinder (about 1/4" in diameter, 3 inches in length) to the right side of the boom. I placed the wood cylinder at the approximate location where the blades strike the boom. When I land hard, the blades hit the wood cylinder first which compresses and dissipates a lot of the energy from the impact. I have had about 10 strikes using this method before any damage occured in the boom.

imflyn

[mochster]

I've been flying the Blade CP since 09/06/06. I've had several kabooms and replaced just about every part more than once (now I've assembled a very good list of resources for various parts at the best possible price). The stock blades are really expensive for a newbie and after buying about ten sets I discovered the plastic main rotor blades. They work great but when there is a main blade strike to the stock carbon fiber tail boom, it's buy-buy boom. After trying several enhancements to absorb shock resulting from a main blade strike, I found the absolute answer (for me). I replaced the stock carbon fiber tail boom with 3/16 X 035 round aluminum. I cut the aluminum tail boom to 12" overall length. The tail motor wire fits inside nicely. I used a spot of Super Glue on the air frame and tail motor mount to secure. Now if there is a tail boom strike, the tail boom may bend slightly but is easily trued up and ready to fly again. I also added Super Skids because the hard landings were too much force on the stock units. I was replacing stock landing gear far too often, an added benefit is the Super Skids provide a nice visual appeal to the copter. Of course, the biggest help in saving the condition of my Blade CP has been taking the throttle to the lowest position immediately when I sense a mishap. [/img]

[eddiemoth]

Hi mochster
Welcome to HeliTown. This is an absolutely nice Blade CP. Do you still run on the stock motor or you've already gone separate?

[mochster]

Thank you! I'm still running the stock motor. I'm very interested in learning more and appreciate guidence how to juice it up at this time. This is my first heli and I'm having a blast learning how to fly (with the help of G3).

[eddiemoth]

mochster, this is a very good thread below that Steve creaeted to do brushless on his Humingbird - everything is basically the same. I want to do it with my Blade CP too, but I have been so tied up. With the super skid and alum tail boom, etc. brushless will give tons of power.
http://helitown.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=402

[swatson144]

My 2 cents on the super (heavy) skids is they are much too heavy and all the weight is down low where you don't want it. They are great for learning hovering but once you get into FF ditch them you'll be amazed at the difference. The best way to get a handle on the stock skids is to break down and buy 5 sets, and a few sticks of 2mm cf rod. Repair them in batches on "no fly days".

Seriously it isn't so much the weight but where it is. That extra pork down low really messes with response time, making overcompensation a real issue. Mainly because of pendulem effect. Most people who highly recommend the super heavy skids dis them in a month or two. The weight plays a part to in the more you have to lift the more torque the already marginal tail motor has to fight.

Tried a set and gave them away as I couldn't see taking someones money on a mistake.

Again it's not a power issue it's a righting moment issue coupled with higher disk loading makes for a plow horse of a heli. The 20$ will go along way to nearly perpetual spare skids.

Steve

[mochster]

Thanks for the tips and links. I have a lot to learn which sorta makes me a newbie. I'm certain as I progress and become a better pilot my needs and conquest will change as well. It's like getting Silvertone as your first guitar when you're a little rocker but you'd never play Cathedral on it...

Thanks again guys!

[cmaxim]

I've been flying the Blade CP since 09/06/06.
Hi mochster,
Thanks you for sharing your great picture and I hope to own one someday. Anyway, I have to learn how to fly first. Or I can just keep as a trophy heli ! What do you think ? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Chinda

[mochster]

Hi Chinda,

I'm thinking the best recommendation I can make is to invest in Great Planes G3 simulator software program (or another like product). Then when you are comfortable and ready to invest in the real deal, make an effort to understand how to set-up and fine tune the heli. Spend time with a local pro or read as much as you can in the forums/trade mags because it will save you alot of $$ and you'll enjoy the sport much more. You'll find out that in no time you'll be making modifications to tweek the machine to your liking. Thanks for your comments!

[Phil_in_CA]

Hey Mochster,
You "Hit the nail on the head!" when you recommend that a newbie spend time with the local pro... Problem is, I wonder how to find a local pro when you live "behind the moon" (read: in the middle of nowhere) like me! I would love to find a "pro" within 100 miles that would help me with my first heli! Do you, or anyone trolling, know of an internet resource to find the proverbial "local pro"???

I would die to find someone nearby to coach me...

I put on the "training wheels" (read: ping pong balls on wire) on my heli and proceeded to bring it down "tail-in" and bend up the tail boom and lost the prop gear and don't know what all! I can't find a detailed picture of the tail to see what might be missing...

The suggestion of aluminium rod for a replacement is super! I will be off to the hardware store in the morning to see if I can get lucky and they have something that will work...

Thanks for listening,