Walkera 22E Owners Thread

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This is the sticky Walkera 22E Oweners thread. You can discuss and post anything related to Walkera 22E helicopter here. You can create new threads to discuss Walkera 22E if you want. If you do, please start your thread with the helicopter name like Walkera 22E...... so that it is easy for other members to find. Try to name your thread as descriptive as possible and avoid something like I need help or Help.


Links to important information about Walkera 22E helicopter.
http://www.helitown.com/WalkeraDragonFly22E.htm

[ManikModder]

just recieved my first heli it's a walkera 22e, i have had some minor problems with the plastic ball linckages breaking on this heli, you can fix this by drilling a small hole threw the ball and then threw the part it broke off of, now take a small paperclip and superglue it in the holes you just created now trim the paperclip, your part is now fixed, after experiencing three of these broken ball connectors i decided to take my heli's head completely apart, then i drilled holes threw all of the ball connectors and used the paperclip to fill the holes, scince i did this i have had no ball breakages

[Tbaus]

Another fix on the breaking balls is to drill a hole where the plastic ball once was and screw in a Losi 1051 metal ball. Once done, I have never seen them break again. The linkage just pops off in a crash..where the plastic ball would have broken off.

[estarter]

The plastic ball will hold if you do the wire insert mod before it breaks. Mine holds up many time even at inverted crash.

[benj]

im a biginer for flying helicopters and i own a Walkera 22E and i never knew that you could fly your helicopter upside down can you really do this

[swatson144]

Certainly but it's beyond the beginner level. Have a look at the current Picture of the Month (POM). Your 22E is also capable if the pilot is.

Steve

[benj]

ya im just a bigginer a cant even get my 22E hovering even with the trims set its just doesnt hover im probably doing something wrong all figure it out tomarrow i hope

[Leo]

Walkera 22e. Help!!!!!!!!!!!! I bent the tail boom (alley) and now im not sure how to take the freeeeeeken thing off (wires?)
Any help PLEASE.
Thanks

Leo.

[swatson144]

Just unplug the tail motor (helps to note the orientation of the plug) and loosen the boom clamp, twist and remove.

Steve

[swatson144]

Ok a bit more on this since I caught up.

I don't have a 22E but some Hornet2s that walkera semi cloned for the 22e. The H2 has a tail drive shaft and a clamp on the boom. If memory serves the 22E has a glued in AL boom?

Here's a guy who replaced with AL stock from the LHS
http://www.rchelicoptertown.com/forum/showthread.php?t=584

Also the Venom 3D is pretty much a rebadged 22E so you may find local parts support via V3d parts. Many newcomers find Venoms manual to make much more sense than the Walkera. http://www.venom-group.com/ though ordering walkera parts is less costly than venom reselling them.

There are some proficient 22E owners on the forum who would be willing to help with more specific details.

Steve

[benj]

help when i tried to fly my 22E it would not take off of the ground and my batteries were fully charged. please help

[swatson144]

2 things can cause that.

1 lack of head speed

2 lack of pitch.

You haven't given enough info to determine which. I'd unplug the motors and power it up. when you raise the throttle all 3 servos should move the same way and that direction should raise the leading edge of the blades.

Steve

[benj]

ya i think its the pitch but idk how to fix the pitch

[benj]

i have an other question with nob should i mess with for the pitch PLT or the PIT

[eddiemoth]

Hi benj yes it is necessary to adjust the pitch sometimes because the pitch can change if you crash or you replace something in the head area that affects the pitch. Do you have a pitch gauge? If not try to get one. It is very handy and it only costs about $12. One other question I would ask is did this happen after you crashed or you changed something or it is always like that?

[swatson144]

OK 1 sentence question = 1 sentence answer.

please read post #10 especially the last paragraph about the better manual.

It's much easier to help if we could share a little info. IE I recommended a little test; I'd unplug the motors and power it up. when you raise the throttle all 3 servos should move the same way and that direction should raise the leading edge of the blades.
yet get no indication of what result was found. If for instance the servos all moved the same way but the leading edge went down then the pitch is reversed, and we could work on that. If it went as expected we could rule out a lot of other problems.

Steve, who'd like to help but can't see it from his house and is getting no descriptions to go on.

[benj]

ya i changed something because it broke and that was probably it and when i unpluged the motor it went up. i noticed that the blades were flat when it was off and when i gave it power it the blades moved but didnt have alot of tilt.

[swatson144]

Try increasing the pitch with the pitch knob (PIT)

Steve

[benj]

ok i will do that, thank you so much for helping me all of you

[estarter]

Assume you haven't change the factory stock linkage setting, for the stock 9cell NimH pack or 3S 900-1200mah lipo pack.

Here's the most popular settings to get you hovering:

1, Unlock the #8 DIP switch at the back of the Tx
2, set the PLT/PIT knob as in the picture

[benj]

thank you so much i did that but i havent flown my 22e yet i hope it works one more question should i lock it back after i have done that

[helicolter]

Is there a manual for the setup for the walkra 22, or maybe a dvd? I have a lot of fixing to do on mine.LOL, but I guess thats just part of learning and the expensive part too!!!

[estarter]

Venam has better manual, the night ranger 3D is same as the 22e.

http://www.venom-aircorps.com/pdfs/instructions/VNR3D_Manual.pdf

[helicolter]

Would you advise the venam heli over the walkra 22 for a beginner, or something else? Thanks

[estarter]

I don't have any Venam products, from what I heard they have good product support.

[Bill]

I am a new owner of a walkera 22E and I am on a large learning curve. I crashed the helicopter and fixed the broken parts, Then I tested the helicopter in the house However when I went outside, the main rotor will no longer work anymore. It's pluged in, an all other controls seem to work. Any suggestions of what to check would be appreciated. I couldn't figure out how to post a new thread, I hope this is right.

[eddiemoth]

So all servos are working except the motor? How about the tail motor? If everything else is good but the main motor, did you conect your motor wire correctly?

[estarter]

Bill,

Check the Tx idle up switch at the right top corner, make sure it is flip upward "N", also the throttle stick and the trim have to be at the lowest position. Turn on the Tx power first, then the heli, the red LED light will start flashing (gyro initializing), do not move the heli, wait until the light turns solid red, the gyro is ready and the esc is armed.

[Bill]

Well the tail motor works fine and I checked the motor plug as well. I double checked the TX idle up switch in N Then run through the start up as you described, still nothing. I guess now I must figure out if it is a fault with the TX,Motor or receiver. Any other suggestion?

[eddiemoth]

If servos and tail motor work, it is likely that TX, and RX are OK because signal is received fine at least for those channels. Without seeing the heli wiring, I would venture to say it might be the motor. Do you have another motor to test?

[Bill]

I don't have a spare motor but could I test the motor independently? What voltage does it run on do you know. Is the motor interchangeable from other heli's?

[estarter]

If the servos and the tail motor works, both esc for main and tail are armed.

The fault lines in the main motor, motor connector, wiring or the esc for the main. First thing to check is the 4in1, make sure there's no burnt smell, then switch the motor plugs, plug the tail motor to the main motor plug (better with the tail blade removed), the main motor lead is the shorter one, if the throttle can control the tail motor, that means the 4in1 is working fine, the problem is in the motor itself, wiring or the connector. If it does not work, chances are the main esc circuitry is bad.

You can test the main motor by removing it out of the heli, use a 1.5V dry cell across the terminal.

Note: There's a diode (a small black round cylinder looking device) across the main motor terminal, you can unsoldering the diode or cut it off. It is used to cut down or ground out the AC current feed back to the esc to keep the esc run cooler. Be very careful if you replace the motor and re-solder the diode back in, if the diode polarity is reversed, you will fry/burnt out the esc right a way.

[Bill]

I switched motor plugs and nothing however I do not know what a 4in1 is and where a ESC is located?

[estarter]

The esc are inside the 4in1. Chances are the power MOSFET in the main motor esc is fried, if you open the 4in1 cover, take a pic on both side and post to help further diagnose.

[Bill]

I'm still not sure what a 4in1 is??

[eddiemoth]

Hi Bill, the 4 in 1 unit is the RX box which also has ESC, Gyro and Mixer and that is called 4 in 1 because it has 4 things in 1 box. See part number HM-22#E-Z-14.

http://www.helitown.com/Walkera22e.jpg

[Bill]

I couldn't see anything unusalbe in the 4in1 but you will be a better judge of that. By the way thanks for all your help, it's much appreciated.

[swatson144]

You really need to seperate the RX from the 3N1 board (it just plugs in) and take more pics / have a look. It sounds like a FET went bad and they often pit or blast out when they do.

In the pic is a board populated with (abused) FETs so you know what they look like. In your pic I can see 1 peeking out the from under the top board. You'll be wanting to look at the pair (main) and not so much the one alone (tail).

Steve

[swatson144]

I switched motor plugs and nothing however I do not know what a 4in1 is and where a ESC is located?

Hmm let's make sure I understand this as it could mean

1 "you swapped motor plugs" and neither motor worked.

2 " " " and the tail worked on the main when you throttled up but the main motor didn't.

3 " " " and all it made all aplliances in your house stop working.

4 " " " and something else happened.


Steve

[Sleepstalker]

I would think that the second pic shows a toasted FET , you need a replacement 4 in 1 or do a lot of studying and rebuild the heli using what is referred to as (separates). The 4 in 1 is a module that acts as a receiver an electric speed control for the main rotor , an electric speed control for the tail rotor , and a gyro
hence the 4 functions . People that like to tinker and have moderate knowledge and high levels of patience have taken these helis and retrofit them with more robust components ...example...1 micro receiver . 1 Main rotor electric speed control...Brushed or brushless depending on your motor.... 1 small amperage rear rotor electric speed control...usually brushless and 1 small Gyro. This site might help you... http://www.walkera22e.zoomshare.com/2.shtml/35d4dfc3dc53fc8de0e969606a0becb0_44a0f28e.writebac k
And also this might help... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3722641/anchors_5252555/mpage_258/key_/anchor/tm.htm#5252555
Good luck with your Walkera... Sleepster...8-)

[swatson144]

Sleeps, the 2nd pic I only see a push pull regulator I presume to be the BEC.

Steve

[Sleepstalker]

Hi Steve the second pic on the bottom shows a blackened fet or triac doesn't it ? I may be mistaken...lol happens alla time...:)

[swatson144]

This pic?

http://www.rchelicoptertown.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1490&d=1191687620

is 2 regulator ICs. I can't seem to get the specs on as I'm not so good at Chinese. Judging by the obvious buses it looks like push pull regulation to me but could be parallel. I can see pin 3 of one goes to + bus and pin 3 of the other goes to - bus so I'm saying push pull.

Now here's a sample of some cheap FET board
http://www.rchelicoptertown.com/forum/photoplog/file.php?n=267&w=o

Pretty much 12 FETs on this board and 3 on the other side to control them. Though bill won't see anything like this. He will see 2 in a pair (bridged much like the 2 examples I posted) and another by itself (and likly a blank pad to pair up).

That pic sure lets you see how they work! BANG! on and 3pins power the phase looking for ground which is provided by one of the other phases. 8-)

Steve, Who has some pics of a walkera board but isn't smart enough to find it.

[Bill]

I tried to seperate the circuit board but it seems to be soldered, I can't see any signs of damage inside. I will take the motor off and run current thru it to check the motor then I will order a new 4in1 or motor as required. I am new in this field and need to take the easist way.. And yes I did run thru the check list as you said.

[swatson144]

Good plan Bill, and if there is ever a lack of confusion in your life, I'm always at your assistance.

Steve

[estarter]

The one look burnt (since all the servo works, obviously it is not burnt) at the bottom is a 5V linear voltage regulator, the one on top is a N channel MOSFET for the main esc. They are TO220 package transistor. The banks of FET 'swatson144' shown are SO8 package.

If the main motor works when test with a 1.5V cell and you have already swap the tail motor to the main esc socket, there's a good chance that the main motor esc circuitry is out of service.

Bill, I have an almost new RTF 22e for sale, PM me for details.

[estarter]

I tried to seperate the circuit board but it seems to be soldered, I can't see any signs of damage inside. I will take the motor off and run current thru it to check the motor then I will order a new 4in1 or motor as required. I am new in this field and need to take the easist way.. And yes I did run thru the check list as you said.

The 2 boards are connected with a single pin on one side and a 6 pin connector on the other side, they are soldered on both board.

There's a single N-channel MOSFET 4410A next to the ch#6 slot to control the tail motor.

[estarter]

Bill,

From what you described, I'm afraid the main motor esc in the 4in1 is bad.

[estarter]

Bill,

I sent you one of the "BU" series MOSFET, you need a hot soldering gun/iron to replace the defective one. I will upload some pic tonight or tomorrow for reference.

[estarter]

#1

Unsolder the MOSFET.

Pic of the transistor is out:

[estarter]

Note, there's some trace damage in this board, hopefully yours is cleaner, any way, you have to clean up the solder residue before installation.

[estarter]

#2

The replacement is in.

[estarter]

Ahh, the pic did upload properly.

Hope it works this time.

[estarter]

Note that the BUZ71 was soldered in a little off position, a bridge with insulation tubing is attached to the right (lower) pin.

[estarter]

BTW, I would like to add this:

1, The center pin (G) is connected internally to the back of the transistor which is soldered to the pc board. It is cut and make sure it does not touch the other 2 pins and the pc board. Heat is the enemy of semi-conductor, use caution when soldering, excessive temperature from soldering will damage the transistor.

2, Make sure you cut off the diode in the main motor (the black round device soldered across the motor terminals). With the diode connected in the motor terminals, if the polarity of the motor lead is reversed, it will fry the MOSFET right away. The 4in1 board in Walkera will work fine without the motor diode. Note, Esky and Blade CP/CPP main motor has no diode.

[estarter]

Bill,

Do a few soldering practice with copper wire before doing with the transistor, few free to post any question and common.

[almtzc]

First of all great forum. I am completely new to RC Helis, bought my first Walkera 22e las week and got if friday needles to say the cable that came with the TX for the sim did not work, so I decided to give it a try and just try the throttle and of course the inevitable happened, by friday night I the Heli was totaled, i already ordered all the parts (x's 2, just in case) and a Esky Sim. I had read that the servos need to be horizontal once the RX has setup but one of the servos is not horizontal and I do not know how to fix it to make all the servos be leved horizontaly, I've tried trimming but that wont do it even if i move the trim all the way to the right it is still a little off. that is why I think i crased so soon because i did not try to hover but just to keep it on the ground but it kept going to the right, right away.

[swatson144]

Sounds like you need to unplug the motors and power it up. the servo arms should be horizontal. If not remove the screw from the center and reposition the arm. Move sticks and test for movement to make sure everything is going the right way and no stripped gears. Reconnect motors and try again.

Steve

[estarter]

First of all great forum. I am completely new to RC Helis, bought my first Walkera 22e las week and got if friday needles to say the cable that came with the TX for the sim did not work, so I decided to give it a try and just try the throttle and of course the inevitable happened, by friday night I the Heli was totaled, i already ordered all the parts (x's 2, just in case) and a Esky Sim. I had read that the servos need to be horizontal once the RX has setup but one of the servos is not horizontal and I do not know how to fix it to make all the servos be leved horizontaly, I've tried trimming but that wont do it even if i move the trim all the way to the right it is still a little off. that is why I think i crased so soon because i did not try to hover but just to keep it on the ground but it kept going to the right, right away.

You should check all 3 servos and make sure they are working properly first. If the servo arm and the linkages connected to the servo arm has no damage, I would leave them along.

1, Use sharpie to mark the main motor red JST connectors, the shorter motor wire usually coming out under the metal frame.
2, Disconnect both main and tail motor plug
3, Check the Tx, make sure the throttle stick and the trim is at the lowerest position, all other trims are at center, idle up switch at the right top corner is at "N" position. Power up the Tx.
4, Plug battery in the heli
5, The 4in1 (black box in front of the heli) LED light should be flashing, after a second or two, it should turn solid red. Now the both the esc is armed and the gyro is done initializing.
6, You should be able to control all 3 servo, the servo arm should move smoothly and no gear grinding or buzzing. The servo arm travel may not be sysmetrical on both side, it is OK at the "N" flight mode.
7, Flip the flight mode switch to "1" and move the throttle stick to center (throttel trim still at the lowest point), all the servo arms should be horizontal or close to horizontal, if the head is in good condition, you should get "zero" main blade pitch at this position.
WARNING: idle up switch at "1" will lock the throttle at FULL power all the time, the throttle stick only control the blade pitch.

If everything works as it should, you may unplug the battery, make sure you also flip the Tx flight switch back to "1" position. Reconnect the motor plugs.

[almtzc]

Thanks estarter and swatson, i will check tonight.

Estarter I do remember the servos do buzz a little when i move the sticks either right or left when they are at the "full" I can hear a little buzz, is this normal, if not how can it be fixed?

[estarter]

I should say the servo should not make any buzz when it reaches its end travel points, usually something is dragging or over travel.

[Bill]

I recieved that mosfet today. I will buy a small soldering iron this weekend and study up on your directions. I guess I just trim the bottom of the mosfet to fit?
Maybe you've answered this already but what would be the best way to trim the extra steel of the mosfet?

[estarter]

Don't trim the MosFET, the metal acts like a heat sink. You may want to tin the back of the metal area first before soldering.

Make the soldering time short, remember, heat is semi-conductor #1 enemy.

[estarter]

Make sure you cut off the diode in the motor terminal to play safe, there's a built in diode in the 4in1, the external diode in the motor can be disregarded.

With the motor off the heli, test the motor with 2 dry cells in both direction before connect back to the 4in1, if the motor does not work, DONOT plug in, you may rise burn out the repaired 4in1.

[Bill]

I got a proper battery holder with two 1.5 volt AA batterys then cut off the black diode on the bottom of the motor. I held the wires to the motor and nothing , I guess I need a new motor as well. Does anyone know of a better place to buy parts that have a cheaper price to ship to Canada? It costs me $10.00 shipping for a $2.00 part.

[swatson144]

You can also look for Venom parts as their 3d is a rebadged 22e. The parts cost more but if you have them local it may be worth it. Some of the smaller craft / hobby stores that carry very little RC stuff have them. My LHS don't carry Walkera but they do have the venom parts.

Steve

[estarter]

You may use the E-flite Blade CP or CP pro main motor, the BCP motor should be available in all LHS if they carry the BCP or BCPP model. If you're flying with the 3S lipo, get the motor w/9T pinion, if you use the stock NimH pack, get the 10Tpinion motor, the E-flite brush motor comes installed with 9/10/11T pinion.

[estarter]

The E-flite motor does not have the diode and is pre-wired with a non polarity plug, you should be able to plug direct in the Walkera 4in1, don't worry about the polarity of the plug, if the rotor turns the wrong direction, just reverse the plug.

The rotor should rotate in the clockwise direction if look from the top.

[estarter]

The Esky CP2 motor works also, the CP2 and BCP motor are almost the same with the same style connector.

[Bill]

Thanks, I will have to get down to the hobby shop and see what kind of heli & parts they sell.

[Bill]

I'm still waiting for my new motor for my 22E and I was thinking of ordering another heli. e-starter told me I shold get a 4 channel as I am a beginner and have had no luck with my 22E so far. He suggested a honey bee, I'm not sure if he meant esky or Walkera. The local hobby shop sells e-flite but they seem expensive, any suggestions? hobby4less has a good deal on esky but the Walkera looks tougher. What model eflite would be equal to the 4 chanel honey bee?

[eddiemoth]

Bill - get an Esky Honeybee FP. The price is reasonable and it is surely durable for your learning curve.

[Bill]

I received my new 22e motor and it came with all the wiring seperate. E-starter told me to not worry about the one diode but there are other round red 104 diodes of some kind, the question is do I need to solder them all on?

[jsbyrd]

Hello Steve,
Couldn't figure out how to start a new thread so I'm replying to a totally unrelated post.
I've had my 22E for quite a while so have learned most of the ins and outs...but I can't ever seen to get it adjusted for enough tail control.Even with trim fully right, I still have to hold stick right to keep the nose straight. I've got initial trim set right, PIT adjusted so that it hovers a little over full throttle, gyro limit set to min. Have been through several tail motors, same with all of them. It has Walkera brushless main motor/esc and 3S LiPo. Any suggestions?

[swatson144]

Oh that Steve is meee..


Pretty much all of the motorized tail helis have yaw control problems. They seem to universally have a gyro gain which controls how hard they push to fight a yaw moment. They also have a center/proportional adjustment which is how much throttle is mixed to the tail throttle. For instance with more throttle you have more torque and thus the tail motor should get more throttle. It sounds as if you have a problem with that mixer section.

Have you looked at the manual for the “venom night ranger 3D” it is the same heli rebadged the venom parts fit and the manual was re written, and makes good sense. http://www.venom-aircorps.com/pdfs/instructions/VNR3D_Manual.pdf

Hope that one of the 22E owners will help.

Steve

[jsbyrd]

What effect would changing the main motor gear have? If I went from 10T to 11T would that reduce torque and therefore make the tail rotor more effective?

[swatson144]

bigger pinion more HS and more torque so it'd be worse.

I don't have an answer but I sure do admire the problem. Is there anyone around who has an answer even if it's one he don't want to hear? Please chime in.

Steve

[Bill]

I've broken ball joints on my rotor linkage several times now and I was wondering if it would be a good investment to buy a aluminum rotor assembley to help eliminate that. I'm not going to try flying my 22e on till I get better with my Honey Bee but I want to fix it up again for the future, maybe I should keep it stock for now? Any suggestions.

[swatson144]

I think I'd just leave it stock. The walkera AL is soooo soft.

There was a person on here who mentioned drilling through the ball and base and inserting a wire. He claimed it stopped the breakage completely.

Steve

[Bill]

Thanks for the help, I think you may be right. It gets to the point when it is cheaper to buy another new heli then spend too much money on a older model.
Any other suggestions on a easy to get glue to glue the heli linkage, in one article they say some can be repaired with glued ?

[swatson144]

Glue? :doubt: I doubt it. With my luck glueing a moving part would only cause it to let go in flight and cause THE crash that takes out the lipo, gyro, bends the frames, strips all the servos, explodes the tail gear box from the shear force of the boom strike, snaps the motor shaft, and fractures the crystal so that it lets go on the post repair maiden flight causing another crash to really drive the point home.

If that sounds like fun please let us know which glue workedlol

Steve who believes glue should be used sparingly by others.

[MrClean816]

I recently purchased a walkera 22e from raidentech.com
Everything came as expected.
I went to try it out.
I read the instruction manual but I suppose I should of looked for more specific information before I attempted to test out the controls.
I fired it up indoors and flipped the invert switch assuming what it did was invert the throttle control, like the manual said it did.
It ends up flying full throttle toward the cealing.
Busted a blade. The ball linkage was a little bent and busted both balls off the blade holders. Also stripped the main gear a little bit. Oh and I bent the main shaft slightly.

Oh and I blew the main motor and the reciever.

so thats my luck for first flight. heh

anyhow reason I am posting. I managed to get everything worked out except for the reciever that I just recently discovered was the source of my problems for the engine not moving.

The question I have is if I can use a different reciever than that of the walkera 22e 4in1 brand model.
For instance I am finding blade cp 6 channel recievers for way less money than the stock walkera reciever.

Any help in this area would be much appreciated.

Oh and I also picked up a new motor off the stock blade cp for 10 bucks so I've got everything I need. Ordered new parts. Only problem I have is the price of the reciever.

[swatson144]

welcome to HeliTown MrClean816. Unfortunately the walkeras are proprietary and neither negative shift (futaba Hitec) or positive shift (Jr Sanwa) so getting any other receiver would require a transmitter also.

Steve

[MrClean816]

ok well, i found a blade cp transmitter and reciever 6 ch... that should work correct?
actually, what i need to know is which receiver and transmitter I can use with my battery. its 11.1v 3 cell.
Also i am unsure as to hook it up to the parts on my copter as seeing there are no wires attached to the reciever.
I'm finding many for less that it would cost me to replace the receiver by itself but unsure as to their compatability.
Any help appreciated.

[swatson144]

I honestly have no idea. In theory it would work but since neither radio has full programability there is potential for a problem that can't be programed out.

I don't know of anyone who has done it either.

I can't say it will or won't work.

Steve

[estarter]

MrClean816

Sorry to hear your mishap with the 22e.

I think you are better off to stick with the Walkera 4in1 since the Walkera Tx has more feature than the BCP like the PLZ and PIT knobs.

The servo rotation direction of the stock 22e is different than the BCP, that pretty much rule out straight replacement for the BCP tx and 4in1. It can be done if you want to experiment with the servo channel directions and reverse the mounting direction of the servo(s), that takes a lot of tinkling and at the end, you may miss one side of the cyclic move direction and not worth it.

If you have a CCPM heli radio that works on the -ve pulse, it would be a different story, I use Hitec Eclipse7 on a BCP 4in1 for one of my 22e.

[danblue83]

please can any one help i am new to rc helichopters so don,t know that much i have a 22e and the tail motor only wants to spin in one direction if i puch the transmitter knob in the other direction the motor dose nothink also is the tail motor supposed to spin when i push the throttle please help!

[MrClean816]

i ended up buying a reciever from hong kong off ebay for 31 dollars.
much better than everywhere else.
They also have these minimal metal head kits + carbon fiber blade deal. I think I payed 23 bucks for it.http://www.cwtcoshop.com/cwtco/parts/22emain.jpg

[ranger306ci]

please can any one help i am new to rc helichopters so don,t know that much i have a 22e and the tail motor only wants to spin in one direction if i puch the transmitter knob in the other direction the motor dose nothink also is the tail motor supposed to spin when i push the throttle please help!

The tail motor is only supposed to spin when you push the rudder stick one direction. Main rotor torque spins the heli the other way. The tail motor should start spinning when the main blades start to spin( to counteract the torque of the main blades. does the heli try to spin in circles when you push the throttle up?
If so, try raising the gain on the gyro, and the proportional gain. There should be 2 little pots on your 4 in 1( the plastic box the electronics are in) one should be labled (prop) and the other should be(gain or gyro) you will want to turn the prop a little clockwise with the battery unplugged, then plug the battery in, fire up the heli, see if it spins in a circle,if it does, unplug it and go clockwise a little more. Keep doing that until, you can get the heli up to speed without it trying to spin on the floor. Then, when it is able to get airborne, you will want to increase or decrease gyro gain to get the heli to behave as you want.

[danblue83]

thank you for your help i will get a new reciver and have a go at setting it up.

[estarter]

Walkera servo plugs are pretty tight, you may need a small needle nose pilers to help pull them out, do one at a time and label them. Set the PLT/PIT to 12'O clock initially and fine tune it in flight, I have 50+ flights with the stock radio using 3S 1200mah lipo pack, my settings by memory is 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock, you will need double heat sink with thermal grease in the main and tail motor, remove the brand label from the main before adding heat sink.

[MrClean816]

Do you think the thermal grease is really necessary, or would the engine probably be good without as long as it had good contact.

[MrClean816]

Has anyone sawed the front lower tab off the plastic body and attempted to mount a battery in the front nose of the helicopter.
Thinking of ways I could fit a larger battery pack.
Question is would it do me any good to fit a bigger one on there.

[MrClean816]

I noticed that all of the ball joints on the upgrade are small.
In other words the linkage kit wiggles when placed on the ball joint.

the only aluminum joints I have anymore are the blade joints and it still has a little play.

What I would like to know is how much that will affect performance of the aircraft.

And also does anyone know where i can get replacement ball joints that are the correct size?

[estarter]

The stock plastic ball is 3.2mm in 22e, you may use LOSI balls in the see saw.

[MrClean816]

see saw? whaza ?

[MrClean816]

here's a picture of the one I have.
If anyone knows where I can get replacement of correct size please link.


http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/4237/balljointny4.jpg

[eddiemoth]

Hi MrClean816,
The image you posted above is too big and it blew off the forum frame. I edited to post the link of the image instead. That way viewers don't have to scroll horizontally to read the thread.
Thanks

[MrClean816]

sorry/thanks

[estarter]

I can't see the pic.

The stock ball is 3.2mm, you may use the LOSI balls to repair the damage ones.

[MrClean816]

losi is a brand name.
I kinda need specifics.
I emailed the company and they have yet to get back to me.
I might try again and see if they can give me part numbers.

[estarter]

Losi balls - 3.2mm Losi balls to be exact, this is from the RC car Losi company, do a search.

[jakey61]

losi is a brand name.
I kinda need specifics.
I emailed the company and they have yet to get back to me.
I might try again and see if they can give me part numbers.

Tamiya Hornet RC cars have a fitting which is the same,checked it out in the local model shop when I trashed my 22E, part number is, 9465107. The guy was a big help and went through a lot of boxes to find one.

[MrClean816]

so the screws fit and the ball is the right size and everything.

[jakey61]

Cant say any more other than that they look the same size. I`d be a lot happier taking a digital calliper with me next time to make sure its the same, as for fitting, I dont think the screw size would give a headache. I`m on holiday next week I`ll see if I can check it out.

[MrClean816]

Robert,

Thank you for your recent e-mail. It does not appear we carry any 3.2mm ball pivot joints.

I hope you find this information useful. If you have any further questions, please reply to this e-mail give us a call at 1-877-504-0233.



Thanks,
Daniel
Product Support Team Member
Horizon Hobby Distributors
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign, IL 61822
877-504-0233
productsupport@horizonhobby.com

[estarter]

Losi balls, easy way to repair damage/broken balls in the swing arms.

[MrClean816]

hah are you teasing me?

[estarter]

Not to teasing you, that what I use to repair my crash 22e.

Most LHS carry RC cars have the Losi ball in stock.

[senan]

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE hELP ME im stuck and no one is helping me


MY WALKERA 22E WORKS PERFICTLY ACCEPT THAT IT DOES NOT LEFT UP IT STAYS ON THE GROUND DANCING ARROUND BUT IT NEVER GOES UP EVERN IF THE THRITTLE STICK IS ON HIEST SPEED

PLEASE HELP ME


i HAD A CRASH WITH IS WICH BROKE THE BLADES AND I REPARED THEM WITH NEW ONES

BUT HTERE IS ANOTHER PART WICH IS BROKEN


i had just checked the two pins that go throgh the t shape had gone off do you think that is why its not lifting up


please view this pic:


http://a.viary.com/imagedetail?fguid=27e10fa6-3fcc-102b-844c-0030488e168ci


had just checked the two pins that go throgh the t shape had gone off do you think that is why its not lifting up OR what is happening please help

[senan]

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE hELP ME im stuck and no one is helping me


MY WALKERA 22E WORKS PERFICTLY ACCEPT THAT IT DOES NOT LEFT UP IT STAYS ON THE GROUND DANCING ARROUND BUT IT NEVER GOES UP EVERN IF THE THRITTLE STICK IS ON HIEST SPEED

PLEASE HELP ME


i HAD A CRASH WITH IS WICH BROKE THE BLADES AND I REPARED THEM WITH NEW ONES

BUT HTERE IS ANOTHER PART WICH IS BROKEN


i had just checked the two pins that go throgh the t shape had gone off do you think that is why its not lifting up


please view this pic:


http://a.viary.com/imagedetail?fguid=27e10fa6-3fcc-102b-844c-0030488e168ci


had just checked the two pins that go throgh the t shape had gone off do you think that is why its not lifting up OR what is happening please help

[senan]

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE hELP ME im stuck and no one is helping me


MY WALKERA 22E WORKS PERFICTLY ACCEPT THAT IT DOES NOT LEFT UP IT STAYS ON THE GROUND DANCING ARROUND BUT IT NEVER GOES UP EVERN IF THE THRITTLE STICK IS ON HIEST SPEED

PLEASE HELP ME


i HAD A CRASH WITH IS WICH BROKE THE BLADES AND I REPARED THEM WITH NEW ONES

BUT HTERE IS ANOTHER PART WICH IS BROKEN


i had just checked the two pins that go throgh the t shape had gone off do you think that is why its not lifting up


please view this pic:


http://a.viary.com/imagedetail?fguid...-0030488e168ci


had just checked the two pins that go throgh the t shape had gone off do you think that is why its not lifting up OR what is happening please help

[swatson144]

The link to picture doesn't work.

Steve

[estarter]

Link does not work, only shows a cracked open egg.

[Hataish]

Hi, This post is very informative, however there are some queries to ask about some specific topic. If someone can help me then please send me a private message. Thanks,


Property Directory (http://www.propertydir.com)|Wholesale Billiards (http://www.wholesalebilliardcues.com)|Wholesale Batteries (http://www.battery4sale.com)|Something Directory (http://www.somethingdirectory.com)

[estarter]

Time to re-commission the W#22e.

This is the time to compare the flying characteristics between the 22e, CP2 and the CPP. I have been flying the CP2 a lot, also quite a few flights with the CPP.

[Bill]

I have had my walkera 22E for a while now but not flowen it and now that I have managed to get it flying the lipo battery seems to go dead almost as soon as I take off. I did not know they were not to be drained low and I may have done that. Can anyone tell me is the battery toast or can I try something else?

[estarter]

More battery info is needed.

I would first check the no load voltage of the pack, check each individual cell voltage if the pack has taps.

[estarter]

I flew the stock motor W#22e, BCPP w/DD tail and the BL CP2 today.

I would place the CP2 1st, W22e 2nd and the BCPP 3rd. I used 2S lipo for the CP2, she is very smooth and the control is precise; 3S for the W22e, very agile and fast; 3S for the BCPP, she flys OK, to be fair, the BCPP is a little porky with the heavy super skid.

[estarter]

I installed the Esky 3100kv brushless motor in the W#22e today, will try to fly her inverted tomorrow if its not windy.

[thumbtime]

i am waiting mke sure you take your cam

[estarter]

Sorry, no camera man. You can search for my previous posted W#22e inverted flying videos.

[broggyr]

Come fly for me and I will record for you :D

[Eddie46]

Hi, I just purchased a Walkera 22e heli, the problem I'm having is as soon as I get up to speed for liftoff the main rotor blades will start to tip/tilt to the left or right. This is my first Walkera helicopter, other heli's I own are the smaller 3 channel copters.

Any help?

chat later... 8-)
- Ed

[swatson144]

Hello Eddie46 and welcome to HeliTown.

Strangely enough that is normal. Any normal configured heli ain't easy to fly, which is what makes them so responsive and fun once you become proficient.

I'd highly recommend Radd's school of rotary flight (http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html) for getting started.

Welcome to a whole new world. :D

Steve

[6nate6]

hello, have just bought my first 6ch 22E. have installed the metal upgrade before i began flying it. do own other 4ch helis and understand the basics. but the 6ch is confussing me for some reason. it seems that the main blades will pitch up but not enough down? meaning, it looks as if it would fly upside down just fine, but cannot get enough pitch out of it downwards to even lift off to hover. the main blades cannot and will not pitch enough to fly up. thanx for any help in this manner. nate

[swatson144]

Hello Nate and welcome to HeliTown

It sounds like you need to center the swash by adjusting the length of the linkages to the 3 servos. Assuming the arms are centered at 50% in IU that should get it straight. Check all the trims/subtrims and pitch knobs 1st though.

I've never owned a walkera and am not extremely familiar with the radios. The 22E is a pseudo clone of an H2 which I am familiar with so I advised on what I'd do on my H2.

Steve

[thumbtime]

i recon you can just flick the dip switch (8 i think)and ajust the right hand knob to get the pitch just were you want it relertive to stick postion unplug your motors while you play

[6nate6]

hello, thanx for the replies. have tried unlocking the dip switch and unpluging the motors to mess with the heli. it just seems to me that the swash plate isnt put down far enough to allow the t-shape holder be put down far enough. therefor not giving me the upward pitch i need to lift off. it looks as if i do lower the swash plate.., the linkage arms are not going to be long enough. thanx.. nate

[swatson144]

That's what I was saying Nate...to lower the swash shorten the links to all 3 servos. With leading grips that'll raise your + pitch assuming the swash isn't centered. You'll want to:
unplug the motors
center all the trims/knobs
place throttle stick at 50% (make sure all servo arms are 90 to MS)
switch to idle up.
Then just adjust the 3 links to the servos to get 0 pitch.
test full up and full down
test in <norm> flight mode.

If the swash is centered you'll just want to adjust the links from the upper swash to the mixing arms.

Using a combination of the 2 you can get even + - pitch and have the swash at the center of travel while the AR pins are also at the center of travel.

Steve

[thumbtime]

mmm what do you mean tryed unlocking dip switch did it not work can you see all three servos move when you twist the right hand knob? with the throttle halfway up?and motor unpluged?? i wouldnt be rushing into taking servo arms off just yet

[6nate6]

thanx steve, will give that a try.

nate

[6nate6]

thumb, yes, all three servos move, but even at full + turn (on the right hand dial). it is not getting me the pitch i need, im lucky to get any positive pitch.

nate

[thumbtime]

ok thats a good start just take servo horns off one at a time and move them down one click each then try again

[estarter]

The 22e Tx has the PIT, PZT knobs on top front of the Tx to adjust the blade pitch travel and amount, you have to unlock the dip switch at the back of the Tx to them.

1, mark one of the motor connectors and disconnect both the main/tail motor plugs, the shorter one is main.

2, center all Tx trims except the throttle at the lowerest position, turn on the Tx, then heli, switch the flight mode switch to idle up, move the throttle stick up and down, the swash should move (stick up, swash down, stick down, swash up).

3, set the throttle stick at the middle position, level the flybar, you should have zero blade pitch, look at swash rod at the anti-rotation bracket, it should be center or close to center position. Move the throttle stick up and down to check the pitch.

4, unlock the dip switch and adjust the knobs to get -9 low stick, 0 center stick, +9 up stick. Keep the knobs between 10 - 2 O'clock position. If you're not able to get the pitch, you have to do it mechanically.

5, power off the heli, use a 1.5mm allen wrench, loosen the grub screw in the blue aluminum T-block, you may have to pop the long linkage off swash to reach it, you can slide the T-block up and down a little, these will change the pitch. Make sure to loctite the screw afterward.

6, if you still can't get the pitch right, the last resort is adjust the linkages in the servo or the head. I have worked on many 22e, the factory settings are pretty good, most of the RTF are fly out of the box just adjust the trims and knobs from the Tx.

[6nate6]

hey guys,
thanx, estarter. and all the rest for your replies. will try one thing at a time, being the simplest first, ofcourse.
nate

[estarter]

If you can't get the pitch from -9 to 9, I would bias toward the + pitch, no need to use too much -ve pitch unless you're flying in windy condition or inverted.

[thumbtime]

estarter
If you can't get the Pitch from -9 to 9, I would bias toward the + Pitch , no need to use too much -ve Pitch unless you're flying in windy condition or inverted.

lol ive not even used idleup yet
and i forgot about moving the "T" block on the shaft that can make a big diffrence in the pitch setting. dam your good
ps still no new vid ov your brushless

[estarter]

Pitch setup at idle up mode will give sysmetrical + / - pitch angle. If you don't plan to fly in the wind or inverted, the normal flight mode setup should be easier and you can smooth out the throttle stick to ease the control at hovering.

[estarter]

Plan to shoot some stock 22e flying video this weekend, keep the finger closed for not crashing.

[6nate6]

well, with all the tweaks and adjustments i have made to get this off the ground. had to adjust the linkages arms to get the pitch i needed. now, i have crashed it but only broke the knob that holds the linkage arm. does anyone know where i can just get these knobs or most i buy a complete set up again? these are threaded knobs on the metal upgrade for the walkera 22e. and what difference would it make if i would use a higher mAH battery with my heli? the battery i have now is 11.1v 800 mah, could i use a higher mah? thanx, nate

[thumbtime]

not sure were to get balls but if you do get another head set off ebay u could take one ball off it im sure you will need some other part soon enoff then screw the ball back on u not loseing anything
as for higher mah you can easy to go to 1250mah but get ready for new motors and heat sinks a must. more weight means more heat, bigger mah means longer flight time which means more heat, soon be time for brushless stick with the 800 till you got brushless motor/s

[6nate6]

yeah, im looking into getting a brushless and full upgrade. after not being able to find the balls at any of my local hobby stores or on the net. went back to putting the original swash plate and stuff back on it. now it is all out of wack, cause i had to adjust the linkages for the new metal upgrade. so, have crashed it and need new main blades for it now.

[Eddie46]

I also crashed my helicopter, but I have spare rotor blades. My question is, can anyone recognize this part on the swashplate? It either came loose or broke off.

You can go to my website at...
http://mjelde101.htmlplanet.com/

scroll down to the "Check out these pictures" section and then click on the "Broken Heli part video". The part is on the right side of the video. I just wonder if I need to order a new swashplate or rotor blade holder or not.

- Ed 8-)

[swatson144]

I got motion sick looking at that but couldn't see a broken part. You should be able to pick out what parts are broken on the exploded view parts diagram.

Steve

[estarter]

Eddie46

You need the part from the left top corner, a swing arm link.

[estarter]

Or you can repair it with LOSI balls, do a search on my previous posts.

[Eddie46]

Eddie46

You need the part from the left top corner, a swing arm link.

Thanks...
- Ed

[Eddie46]

Eddie46

You need the part from the left top corner, a swing arm link.

Would the local hobby store have a swing arm link for the RC Walkera 22E helicopter? They sell the electric RC helicopters, but their prices are a bit higher than what I've seen them advertised for on the web.

- Ed

[thumbtime]

i would repair it as per other links in this thread or drill it through center 1mm cut 5mm ov paperclip thread it throgh the hole and ca

[Eddie46]

Or you can repair it with LOSI balls, do a search on my previous posts.

So I need to buy some of these...
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/hobbieguyrc/items/item.aspx?itemid=216156

or do like thumbtime suggested...
I think I'll see if the hobby store has LOSI balls and then repair it.

- Ed 8-)

[estarter]

Losi 1051, 3.18mm ball

[6nate6]

yes! these i am in desperate need for. does anypne know where i can get these? besides my local hooby shop. have tried there with no luck. thanx
nate

[estarter]

6nate6

If you are in the states, LOSI products are very popular in the RC car section of LHS.

[6nate6]

hey,
ok. have upgraded to the brushless and full metal swash plate. after connecting everything for the brushless the tail motor is not working. why is this? have looked everything over to insure that i did not snip any of the wires and i know for a fact the tail motor is in working conditon. can anyone tell me what i might be doing wrong? am using a 11.1 1500 mAH lipo battery, and i think that all the esc and brushless motor wires are connected properly. thanx for your help. nate

[estarter]

Are you using the stock 22e 4in1? The BL upgrade is straight forward, leave the brush motor connector alone, plug the BL esc in ch4, solder the power lead of the esc and the 4in1 together or use Y adaptor, disable the esc BEC system by pulling out the center red wire, you are good to go.

[6nate6]

hey, thanx. im guessing these instructions are for if i am using the stock 4in1. if i were to get a different reciever, do you have any suggestions on one for this heli? would i have to also buy a gyro? what type and where could i get these parts? and lastly before i go and wank wires out, you are telling me to pull the red (middle) wire out of the lead coming from the ESC, right? why is this? also, i have read that the tail motor will not hold up to the lipo battery, is this true and if so how can i avoid buring it up? does anyone have any pictures of the wiring of the esc and brushless to compare to mine? thanx agian.

nate

[estarter]

If you use different radio system, you have to refer to the manual for the throttle channel.

Disable the BEC from BL esc, it was assuming you use the stock 4in1, since the stock 4in1 has the built in BEC, most esc also has built in BEC, they may not work well together, that's the reason.

The head speed is likely to be higher with the BL motor, actually less tail speed is needed for higher head speed at hovering. You'll need more tail authority for FFF/aero/3D.

[6nate6]

yes, i am using the original 4in1. thanx for your reply, but i have many other questions.
im guessing these instructions are for if i am using the stock 4in1. if i were to get a different reciever, do you have any suggestions on one for this heli? would i have to also buy a gyro? what type and where could i get these parts? and lastly before i go and wank wires out, you are telling me to pull the red (middle) wire out of the lead coming from the ESC , right? why is this? also, i have read that the tail motor will not hold up to the lipo battery, is this true and if so how can i avoid buring it up? does anyone have any pictures of the wiring of the ESC and brushless to compare to mine? thanx agian.

nate

[thumbtime]

you would need a new 6ch tx if you was to get a new 6ch rx in place ov the 4-1 plus a brushed esc and gyro (401)get all the whistles and flags not that i own one mine was super cheap but it works for me (beginer)but on the same lines asking about the tail motor burning out with the lipo yes i can say they are crap no 2 ways about iti got a bag ov burnt out tails to prov it. i went brushless with this aswell i aint burnt this out yet i have fanned my barbi i even did the edgeing on my grass with this tail motor so you are talking about £200 to do all (tx rx gyro esc or brushless esc and little motor) this and a lot ov setting up time but it can be done mr estarter has done it and so have i :)
ps i do love my brushless everything worth every minuite i spent doing it

but back to today
WARNING the cheap 22e blue heads off ebay mmmmmmmmm i had a main blade holder pull off the bearing just let go the screw was still in the t bar with the inner ov the bearing behind the washer and the outer in the blade holder ten feet away on my grass i changed the bearings all 4 to the ones that came with my original plastic ones lost small link bar had to modify some other things to make one but was back in the air 5 hours later

[6nate6]

Check this out... selling it all

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=300225865339&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=020

[estarter]

The W#22e is very sensitive at high head speed, if your head speed is above 2200rpm, the heli will be very twichy to fly. The head speed is around 2200rpm if you use 3S lipo pack for the stock brush motor, the head speed usually is higher after upgrade to Bl motor.

[Eddie46]

The blade Pitch on my Walkera 22E seems to be way off, one blade is slightly down and the other is slightly up, but the wrong way for lift off. But it seems to spin up fine, turning the PIT knob more on the + side seems to help.

http://mjelde101.htmlplanet.com/

[thumbtime]

hi eddie you could look at the book for venom3d it is the same bird but with better instuctions
it tells you about your blade tracking and how to ajust it

http://www.modelflight.com.au/rc_model_helicopters/night_ranger_3d_helicopter.htm

[estarter]

Eddie46

You have a nice fleet, I was wondering that the tail blade in the 22e does not spin in the video. You can lengthen the adjustable linkage (the one goes to the swash) of the low blade to track the blades, do it one turn at a time.

[Eddie46]

My main carbon fiber rotor blades are all out of trim/pitch track, I don't know how to correct this. The way the heli is now it will never even lift off the ground.

http://mjelde101.htmlplanet.com/

chat later... :)

[Eddie46]

The last time I tried to fly the Walkera 22E, it got off the ground a few inches, then I tried to land it and hit the back/reverse, so the tail struck the lawn and spun away from the heli. And the main wooden blades I had at that time struck the tail boom. So I replaced the wooden blades with carbon fiber blades.

And I bought a couple of new tail booms for it.

I've had much better times flying my Blade CX2, but I have not flown the CX2 inverted yet. :) lol :)

http://mjelde101.htmlplanet.com/Blade%20CX2%20movie.wmv

- Eddie

[Eddie46]

hi eddie you could look at the book for venom3d it is the same bird but with better instuctions
it tells you about your blade tracking and how to ajust it

http://www.modelflight.com.au/rc_model_helicopters/night_ranger_3d_helicopter.htm

I have the Venom Night Ranger 3D manual in .PDF format, I'll have to take another look at it.

[Eddie46]

Eddie46

You have a nice fleet, I was wondering that the tail blade in the 22e does not spin in the video. You can lengthen the adjustable linkage (the one goes to the swash) of the low blade to track the blades, do it one turn at a time.

I'll try that, the tail blade does start to spin when I apply more power to the heli.

[swatson144]

That's the best way. Make sure you mark one blade (or grip) so that you always adjust that blade so you don't screw up the pitch range. Obviously if you adjust the low blade too much it becomes the high blade, then you adjust the low blade and you have off centered your pitch range.

After the boom strike you may have a bent spindle (feathering shaft). I'd remove one blade and stick a tool on the nut (or SHCS) and turn it. If it's bent you'll see/feel it all wobble. You'll never get it to track if the FS is bent.

Steve

[Eddie46]

That's the best way. Make sure you mark one blade (or grip) so that you always adjust that blade so you don't screw up the pitch range. Obviously if you adjust the low blade too much it becomes the high blade, then you adjust the low blade and you have off centered your pitch range.

After the boom strike you may have a bent spindle (feathering shaft). I'd remove one blade and stick a tool on the nut (or SHCS) and turn it. If it's bent you'll see/feel it all wobble. You'll never get it to track if the FS is bent.

Steve

I'll try that...
Is there an easier helicopter to fly than the Walkera 22E? I'm really good at flying my Blade CX2 now, but what other collective pitch helicopter besides the 22E is good? Is the Esky 6 CH Honey Bee King II easier to fly?

http://www.nitroplanes.com/20newes6chho1.html

I'll still work on my 22E... :roll: :)
And fly my Blade CX2 in the meantime...

- Eddie

P.S. I got a "Database error" when I tried to Preview Post, so I logged back in and it seems to work okay now...

[daviesmjd]

After throttling up my 22e for the third time my motor stopped working. I've tested the motor using a powerpack and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it. I suspect the problem lies with the reciever but all other controls seem to be working fine. Is the motor control fried or am i missing something any help would be much appreciated?

Mark

[swatson144]

Daviesmjd welcome to helitown.
I'm assuming the tail motor spins while throttling up and the main motor don't?
If you plug the tail motor into where the main motor goes and it don't spin, while the swash moves up and down along with the throttle stick, then I'd think it's a bad 4n1. This little test is really just to check the wires.

Eddie46, Pretty much all the CP helis in the same size range fly roughly the same. Slower headspeed makes them react slower, as does adding a little weight to the flybar near the paddles. A shorter flybar or heavier paddles makes for a less lively heli. Why has it got to be CP? FPs rock to get FF and circuits etc knocked, then come in handy for NI. ThinItover.

Steve

[daviesmjd]

Thanks foor the info, I tested the tail rotor like you said and sure enough it worked using the main motor's connection (4 in 1 working = good!) so i checked the main motor again using the powerpack and now it won't work at all, checked the brushes on it and they're cactus, problem solved thanks for the help though!

[Eddie46]

[QUOTE=swatson144;23091]Daviesmjd welcome to helitown.
I'm assuming the tail motor spins while throttling up and the main motor don't?
If you plug the tail motor into where the main motor goes and it don't spin, while the swash moves up and down along with the throttle stick, then I'd think it's a bad 4n1. This little test is really just to check the wires.

Eddie46, Pretty much all the CP helis in the same size range fly roughly the same. Slower headspeed makes them react slower, as does adding a little weight to the flybar near the paddles. A shorter flybar or heavier paddles makes for a less lively heli. Why has it got to be CP? FPs rock to get FF and circuits etc knocked, then come in handy for NI. ThinItover.

It does not have to be a CP, I like all helicopters... :)
I had to order a new motor for my Walkera 22E about a month ago, the old motor burned up, it got too hot from all the spinning up I did. I just bought another standard brush motor.

I also have a heat sink on my blade CX2 180 motors, helps them stay cool.

8) :)

- Eddie

[thumbtime]

spelling bad

[thumbtime]

hope i not too late but dont get another brushed motor ebay esc and brushless upgrade 22e total is only £25 ish it will far out last 4 brushed motors you will have to buy ps order some tail motors while you at it
my 10p

[Eddie46]

That's the best way. Make sure you mark one blade (or grip) so that you always adjust that blade so you don't screw up the pitch range. Obviously if you adjust the low blade too much it becomes the high blade, then you adjust the low blade and you have off centered your pitch range.

After the boom strike you may have a bent spindle (feathering shaft). I'd remove one blade and stick a tool on the nut (or SHCS) and turn it. If it's bent you'll see/feel it all wobble. You'll never get it to track if the FS is bent.

Steve

I stuck a tool on the nut, but it would not turn at all. I am able to turn the thing where the blades go, look at the video I made, is it normal for this part of the helicopter to turn and go up/down?

http://mjelde101.htmlplanet.com/Walkera%2022E%20video.wmv

thumbtime wrote > hope i not too late but dont get another brushed motor ebay esc and brushless upgrade 22e total is only £25 ish it will far out last 4 brushed motors you will have to buy ps order some tail motors while you at it.

I already got the new brush motor and installed it, however, I will consider getting a new brushless motor and tail motors in the near future.

Eddie
http://mjelde101.htmlplanet.com

[swatson144]

We'll need to leave that Q to Estarter the 22E man. He definately knows the 22E inside and out. I only have the MS Hornet 2 which the 22e is a copy of. The center hub of the H2 is solid.

You were twisting the grip. if you look inside the grip (where the blade goes) you'll see a cap screw. That screw goes into the feathering shaft. If you turn it the FS will turn. If you see the other grip wobble then you have a bent FS. The grips rotate on bearings on the feathering shaft which runs between the two grips through the dampeners in the hub.

Steve

[Eddie46]

We'll need to leave that Q to Estarter the 22E man. He definately knows the 22E inside and out. I only have the MS Hornet 2 which the 22e is a copy of. The center hub of the H2 is solid.

You were twisting the grip. if you look inside the grip (where the blade goes) you'll see a cap screw. That screw goes into the feathering shaft. If you turn it the FS will turn. If you see the other grip wobble then you have a bent FS. The grips rotate on bearings on the feathering shaft which runs between the two grips through the dampeners in the hub.

Steve

you wrote > That screw goes into the feathering shaft. If you turn it the FS will turn.

I tried to turn it with a tool that came with the 22E, it won't turn because it's very/super tight, so I left it alone because I didn't want to break any thing.

Oh well, someday I'll try to fly the 22E again...
I've been looking at the Esky Honeybee King II helicopter, I may buy that one or some other helicopter.

I thought the Blade CX2 could not fly inverted, but look at this youtube video...maybe it's faked. I can't do that... :) Yes, it is faked, not real...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbJLQ_hZ29w

[thumbtime]

i cant see your vid my pc is slow very but does the blue bit move? it shouldnt all around it but not that blue bit(T block) dont know if this helps
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX-9NVsgfBM
ps i think it is real

[Eddie46]

i cant see your vid my pc is slow very but does the blue bit move? it shouldnt all around it but not that blue bit(T block) dont know if this helps
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX-9NVsgfBM
ps i think it is real

I don't know, I'll look at it and see what I can find out.

> ps i think it is real

You think the Blade CX2 flying inverted is real? I don't know myself, but that's cool if it really is flying inverted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbJLQ_hZ29w

I'll fix my 22E someday, and maybe it will fly. :)

Eddie

[swatson144]

It's either fake or someone put the siding on upside down.:roll:

Steve

[thumbtime]

now im not sure box glued to celing ?? why didnt he do it outside
and it wouldnt work right on the cyclic the second set ov blades would mess the wind up from the cyclic set i was drunk lastnight lol
btw i done this vid for you from full - pitch to full + pitch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOWriJllYo0

[thumbtime]

what is the bigest lipo you have flown in your 22e?im lookin want the longest flight time no 3d stuff

[Eddie46]

I just got the new version of the metal head set for my Walkera 22e...

The question is:
How do I remove T-shape holder to put the new one on? Do I need to take the whole unit apart?

thumbtime wrote > what is the bigest lipo you have flown in your 22e
I just have the 3 cell 11.1 volt lipo...

[Eddie46]

what is the bigest lipo you have flown in your 22e?im lookin want the longest flight time no 3d stuff

I've only flown the 22e for about a minute, so my 3 cell 11.1V lipo did very well...

:) :razz: :)

[thumbtime]

yes only thing you dont have to remove is the swash plate unless you got a new blue one ov them as well the hardest part i have found is the little grub screw in the T you can do the whole job in 20 mins if that grub is ok i had to cut one off took me 3 hours with dremmal one time

[estarter]

The T-block from the metal head kit should be same as the stock one, you may leave the stock one in but since you have to remove blades grips, use everything from the kit, save the stock one for spares.

I would loosen up the grub screws from the main gear and the main shaft holder, pull the main shaft out, then replace the swash and reverse the procedure to install the new head back in the heli.

[Eddie46]

The T-block from the metal head kit should be same as the stock one, you may leave the stock one in but since you have to remove blades grips, use everything from the kit, save the stock one for spares.

I would loosen up the grub screws from the main gear and the main shaft holder, pull the main shaft out, then replace the swash and reverse the procedure to install the new head back in the heli.

What I meant to say is how do I remove a stuck T-shape Holder on my 22E.

[thumbtime]

it is just a good fit put a spanner (or mole grips)on the t and hold the shaft with your fingers on the big white cog and twist as you pull it up as long as the grub screw is out there is nothing else to hold it

[SloICEMAN]

What I meant to say is how do I remove a stuck T-shape Holder on my 22E.
Maybe the video can explain it better...I have removed the little screw that you see in the T-shape Holder, I just put it back in so I knew where it was...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r15KEqdApLg

Here's my Blade CX2 with new CNC blade grips and Extreme blades...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maCE1zhCEm4

For some reason the videos will not display in the message itself...

Eddie,
For the videos I have two things that will help you out.
First, when shooting close shots you want to turn the camera into macro mode. You should see a little symbol of a flower or you may have to go into menu settings depending on what type of camera you have. The macro mode tells the camera you are going to be taking pictures/videos at close up and to adjust the focus for that.

Second, to post the video into your message you need to use the embed link. There should be a link right after you post your video that says embed code. Copy that and paste it into your post and the video will be displayed in post.

Hope that helps,
Slo

[Eddie46]

it is just a good fit put a spanner (or mole grips)on the t and hold the shaft with your fingers on the big white cog and twist as you pull it up as long as the grub screw is out there is nothing else to hold it

Thanks, I'll try that...

[Eddie46]

Eddie,
For the videos I have two things that will help you out.
First, when shooting close shots you want to turn the camera into macro mode. You should see a little symbol of a flower or you may have to go into menu settings depending on what type of camera you have. The macro mode tells the camera you are going to be taking pictures/videos at close up and to adjust the focus for that.

Second, to post the video into your message you need to use the embed link. There should be a link right after you post your video that says embed code. Copy that and paste it into your post and the video will be displayed in post.

Hope that helps,
Slo

I have a cheap Flip video camera...
http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-camcorders/flip-video-ultra-60/4505-6500_7-32627442.html

I don't know how to correct for the blurry close ups, I'll have to look at the directions to see if the camera can correct for that or not. I should just get a better camcorder camera...

I tried embedding the links, it still didn't work...
I finally got it to work, click below...
http://www.rchelicoptertown.com/forum/showthread.php?p=24321#post24321

I'm almost finished putting the new metal head kit on my Walkera 22E.
I hope I can fly it again soon.

[Freak]

Another fix on the breaking balls is to drill a hole where the plastic ball once was and screw in a Losi 1051 metal ball. Once done, I have never seen them break again. The linkage just pops off in a crash..where the plastic ball would have broken off.

where do you buy the ball from? I cant find the right size locally. And what size? the ball measures 1.5mm.

[estarter]

The Losi ball works great, the short comings is you may break the plastic area in the next big crash and you have to replace the entired swing arm if the ball end linkage don't pop off.