swatson144
08-24-2008, 06:15 AM
Raptor .50 V1 vs V2
I have recently purchased a Raptor .50 that turned out to be a Raptor .30 V1 somewhat converted to a Raptor .50, having diligently searched and finding no real info I'm gonna list what I found to be the difference.
The clutch and starter ass'y has been my biggest problem so I'll start with it. I may later go into the frame and larger tank conversion.I have added the head in post #3. Note that I am figuring out what is going on with this heli and you should consider this as a list of what don't work together more than what does. My major problem is that I had a 9T (.30 size) pinion and wanted to put the 10T pinion on to get my motor speed right. After installing the pinion and JB Weld in place it still slipped down and allowed the drum to drag on the clutch top. I could just have another go at sticking the parts together but I don't find splitting the frames to be an enjoyable experience. Having a V2 I know that the V2 starter shaft mechanically holds the position of the pinion in the lower starter shaft bearing and will prevent it from slipping. Glue=Bad while Sound mechanical principles=Good. I'm intending to see If I can get the V2 clutch and starter to fit the V1 frame. If not I'll be those parts ahead for a new frame.
Clutch, the part numbers are from old manuals and have been changed but Google the number and you'll generally get taken to a part with the new number. Or just type it into the search at www.heliproz.com (http://www.heliproz.com).
The V1 clutch and drum are slightly smaller than the V2? The V2 drum BK0591 measures ~ 43.5mm OD. I'm sorry I couldn't give the measurement of the V1 BK0039 but mine had the V2 installed. Apparently the V2 drum and the V2 clutch will work fine on the V1 starter shaft bk0044. I know this to be true because I swapped my motor fan and clutch into my V2 with it's starter ass'y unchanged. So if both sets of clutches and drums are the same one can expect them to work with either starter ass'y.
Some differences
The V1 uses a smaller diameter starter shaft (5mm) with a 6mm larger bearing surface on the clutch end. There is nothing to control length wise movement so if you can slide the starter shaft up and down ~ 5mm by pulling the starter coupling you likely have a V1
http://www.rchelicoptertown.com/forum/photoplog/file.php?n=565&w=o
In the picture above the V2 is top V1 bottom. You can tell that anything that will fit the smaller diameter of the V1 shaft will be too small for the v2 shaft This includes the Starter coupling V1 Bk0045 (V2 BK0594), upper bearing v1 HMV1650 (v2 HMV696Z), and pinion V1 Bk0043 (V2 BK0624). You can't see in the pic that the V2 shaft has a groove for an E clip which will hold it all together once the starter coupling is squeezed down on top and tightened. That will prevent the clutch bell from falling onto the clutch and dragging too bad to idle. I'll also have to replace my brand new 10T V1 pinion as the hole is too small for the 6mm V2 shaft. The lower starter bearing (the pinion rides in) shares a common number so I should be good there HMV1680. Another note worth mentioning is the V1 shaft has very small flats for the starter couplers grub screw. The one on mine had had the shaft chewed pretty good so the bearing wouldn't slide past. Since i had to split the frames to change bearings I took it all out at once and cleaned it up to remove it.
I hope this helps someone as it took a good deal of time to figure out, not having all the stuff ready at hand to compare and not being able to find anything like this mini howto to keep from buying unneeded parts. It's pretty simple now.
Steve
I have recently purchased a Raptor .50 that turned out to be a Raptor .30 V1 somewhat converted to a Raptor .50, having diligently searched and finding no real info I'm gonna list what I found to be the difference.
The clutch and starter ass'y has been my biggest problem so I'll start with it. I may later go into the frame and larger tank conversion.I have added the head in post #3. Note that I am figuring out what is going on with this heli and you should consider this as a list of what don't work together more than what does. My major problem is that I had a 9T (.30 size) pinion and wanted to put the 10T pinion on to get my motor speed right. After installing the pinion and JB Weld in place it still slipped down and allowed the drum to drag on the clutch top. I could just have another go at sticking the parts together but I don't find splitting the frames to be an enjoyable experience. Having a V2 I know that the V2 starter shaft mechanically holds the position of the pinion in the lower starter shaft bearing and will prevent it from slipping. Glue=Bad while Sound mechanical principles=Good. I'm intending to see If I can get the V2 clutch and starter to fit the V1 frame. If not I'll be those parts ahead for a new frame.
Clutch, the part numbers are from old manuals and have been changed but Google the number and you'll generally get taken to a part with the new number. Or just type it into the search at www.heliproz.com (http://www.heliproz.com).
The V1 clutch and drum are slightly smaller than the V2? The V2 drum BK0591 measures ~ 43.5mm OD. I'm sorry I couldn't give the measurement of the V1 BK0039 but mine had the V2 installed. Apparently the V2 drum and the V2 clutch will work fine on the V1 starter shaft bk0044. I know this to be true because I swapped my motor fan and clutch into my V2 with it's starter ass'y unchanged. So if both sets of clutches and drums are the same one can expect them to work with either starter ass'y.
Some differences
The V1 uses a smaller diameter starter shaft (5mm) with a 6mm larger bearing surface on the clutch end. There is nothing to control length wise movement so if you can slide the starter shaft up and down ~ 5mm by pulling the starter coupling you likely have a V1
http://www.rchelicoptertown.com/forum/photoplog/file.php?n=565&w=o
In the picture above the V2 is top V1 bottom. You can tell that anything that will fit the smaller diameter of the V1 shaft will be too small for the v2 shaft This includes the Starter coupling V1 Bk0045 (V2 BK0594), upper bearing v1 HMV1650 (v2 HMV696Z), and pinion V1 Bk0043 (V2 BK0624). You can't see in the pic that the V2 shaft has a groove for an E clip which will hold it all together once the starter coupling is squeezed down on top and tightened. That will prevent the clutch bell from falling onto the clutch and dragging too bad to idle. I'll also have to replace my brand new 10T V1 pinion as the hole is too small for the 6mm V2 shaft. The lower starter bearing (the pinion rides in) shares a common number so I should be good there HMV1680. Another note worth mentioning is the V1 shaft has very small flats for the starter couplers grub screw. The one on mine had had the shaft chewed pretty good so the bearing wouldn't slide past. Since i had to split the frames to change bearings I took it all out at once and cleaned it up to remove it.
I hope this helps someone as it took a good deal of time to figure out, not having all the stuff ready at hand to compare and not being able to find anything like this mini howto to keep from buying unneeded parts. It's pretty simple now.
Steve