Electric Lite Machine Corona RC Helicopter Owners Thread [Archive]

swatson144

08-17-2006, 03:40 AM

The corona is probably the very best heli for a beginner, seriously I mean out of all choices. It is also excellent for an experienced pilot who wants to fly and enjoy with no stress. Pretty wild claims there you may think.

For the beginner;

..It's tough! most crashes don't cost anything at all. Just set it back on it's skids and straighten the rotor and go again.
..It can be flown with a cast off 4 chan transmitter, to keep costs down.
..If components are chosen carefully they can move to the next heli. 3s2100 to a mini, 3s4400 can be run in series for another electric. Though the motors and servo can be reused you'll not want to render it unflyable so I won't even go there.
..It was designed for 7-8 cel SubC NiXX packs so it'll carry some weight. If you are lucky you have some around and a charger.
..Because it's so tough there is very little down time for parts.
..Because it is so simple there is very little down time for adjusting.

For the experienced pilot

..we all have trouble with certain aspects of flying. FBF is mine. I can take the Corona out and get it all in one sock before I ever spin up something that will cost real money to crash.
..You can do slooow piros to practise changing orientations with out fear of losing it, because if you do it probably won't cost any parts or down time. No need to be up high where you can recover (maybe). Down low and close where you can see what you are doing wrong.
..It'll likely not mind sharing your batteries with other helis.
..It's something to do while you are waiting for parts for your CP.
..It's a park flyer. You can fly when and where you want without loading up for a day of it. Little movie HERE (http://www.1upcomputer.com/images/temp/0P-1.wmv) cockpit view from a Corona at my walk to flying site.
..It's just plain fun.

A 10M vid of some rather tame backyard flying can be seen HERE (http://www.1upcomputer.com/images/temp/steve-1.wmv)

Steve[/url]

swatson144

11-24-2006, 11:32 AM

I just found that the canopy for the BP explorer makes a decent Corona canopy and sure is a lot easier to setup 7$ for the canopy and windshield. My nose is a little longer than stock. The canopy is easy on and off.

Just cut a notch 1 7/8" w x 2 1/2" L in the bottom and place a 2mm cf rod on through the crutch at the vertical stiffner just below the linkage at full down elevator.

Steve

NeilM

12-28-2006, 12:40 PM

What bits break??

I am seriously considering importing a Corona into the UK now. Just a bare bones model, to keep duty costs down.

What bits should I consider bringing in at the same time? I see there is a crash kit. Is it worth having?

Three guesses who is going to answer these questions?....No! make that one :D

Neil

Sleepstalker

12-28-2006, 01:23 PM

Hi Steve on your strong recommendation and support for the Corona it was seriously a model I considered after I decided enough with the Shogun. Unfortunately all the LHS's in my area (2) with a new one just started all gave me blank looks when I asked if they would consider ordering and stocking Corona parts for me , I guess I am more of an immediate gratification type of flyer that wants to fix it RIGHT NOW and fly some more , without ordering parts online from stateside. So based on local parts availability I was stuck with CX/CP or Trex so I went with the Rex. Good luck on your decision NeilM...Sleepster... 8)

swatson144

12-28-2006, 02:05 PM

Blades break when they hit something substantial like a clothes line pole etc. IMO since they are the only part of a corona you can't easily make get plenty 10$ each. (20/pair) I keep around 8 and never seem to break them since I have so many.

The blades will bend the tail boom if not out fitted with a good boom protector. Though usually the boom can be salvaged with a 3/8" dowel. Best to use a boom protector, but a spare boom is handy.

The weakest part of the stock kit is the tail housing gear box. They can break installing. Heck they can break sitting in the spares box. It seems to be luck of the draw. If you get a good one it can survive many bad crashes and last a long time. Then you might break 3 in a row. Chopper1 delrin TH is the way to go if you can find one pretty much can't be broken.

Z links vanish so you definitely need a couple packs of them. Or make your own but at 3$ for 6 ....

A pack of 4-40 and 2-56 locking nuts and washers LMH is the cheapest source I have ever found without buying 100ea. very nice to have as they come in handy when you lose one.

The stock landing gear is a festering boil on the backside of everything good in the heli world. Voyager E skids and struts are the answer. You'll want a spare set, as on occasion they can be broken.

I much prefer the plywood frame over the pretty AL flys better and is stiffer. I broke a couple stock crutches now I just make my own they seem to hold up better. Especially with some CF on the keel.

The tail fin is too short. Cut another out of 1/8" sentra etc that's longer and will keep the tail blades out of the grass Which brings us to the tail drive.
You want a spare crown and drive gear. A spare drive wire would be nice as would the hollow tail shaft & gear.

I've never bent a main shaft though they can be easily made from 5/32" piano wire. I have never had a problem with the swash which can be dis'd and maintained during bad weather.

So far I have broken 2 crutches, 2 blades, 1 drive wire, 2 VE struts, 1 tail drive pinion, and 1 main gear. That's about it and mine has hit the mat harder than a pro boxer taking a fall. The boom has been bent numerous times and usually just gets bent back "over the knee". My friend Rick has had about the same experience with his so I don't think it's far off the mark.

It is of course a heli and as such can be crashed very hard with minimal damage, or tipped over and get a lot worse.

The "go to guy" for Corona parts is Mike Roffee who I understand ships international VIA USPS (sails through customs with no brokerage fee etc) and doesn't leave you feeling like you should have gotten a kiss and a reach around. I know of a couple of his happy customers in S. Africa, NZ, Norfolk VA, etc. He has no online ordering but http://www.roffeetvhobby.com/ and click on contacts, and make your enquiry. As for me I don't even ask prices I just email a list saying send these, and he sends me a reply with the prices and that it is shipped, unless there is a question.

Not too concise (big surprise there!) but I think it's pretty comprehensive.

Steve

swatson144

12-28-2006, 02:39 PM

So based on local parts availability I was stuck with CX/CP or Trex so I went with the Rex. Good luck on your decision NeilM...Sleepster... 8)

Sleeps How in the heck are we ever gonna know how you are getting on if you don't join us in the members flight log/journal area? http://www.helitown.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=49 every body learns differently (usually much faster than I) and contributing in that area can help you track your own progress/events and allow others to see what is going on without posting dedicated threads. Come on check it out.

Neil doesn't seem to be prone to rash decisions. I too hope he gets it right on the first try whichever way he chooses to go. I think he'll do well as he is certainly tenacious, a very good trait in this hobby.

Steve

NeilM

12-28-2006, 02:56 PM

Well, no prizes for who came back with the replies :D

Thanks very much Steve, great information, as always.

I will drop Mike an e-mail with my shopping list. Your comments about his service really made me laugh out loud :lol:

I'll have a whizz round the net, to get the part numbers I need, but I'm sure Mike will know what I mean.

I have seen some of your videos, so I know how tough the Corona is, and I had not realised that it is quite a decent size, so it will do me outdoors. No room in the garage, that's my workshop, full of tools and benches, and at present horse riding gear and some of my daughters artwork (6ft x 4ft), she couldn't paint miniatures could she?

So, the back garden, a local playing field and the local club will do just fine.

Right, off to look into r/c and gyro's, I might even go 2.4 gHz with a DX7, bit exotic, but a good way to go I think.

Neil

NeilM

01-21-2007, 07:39 AM

Here is a picture of my Corona fitted with a 'Carbon Copy' Eolo Spirit canopy fitted.

swatson144

01-21-2007, 08:12 AM

That's just gorgeous! Thanks for posting it. My friend Rick flys in his back yard and all the houses around him have light gray siding and the privacy fence is also light gray, so most light colored canopies turn into "Urban camouflage" . We don't have much Eolo stuff on this side of the pond but it's not unobtainable. I think he'll really like it. We've been using some ugly skins mostly due to not having much choices to lay hands on and say that'll work.

Steve

eddiemoth

01-21-2007, 08:18 AM

Here is a picture of my Corona fitted with a 'Carbon Copy' Eolo Spirit canopy fitted.

Awesome! I looks very sharp. I like it. :D :D :D

NeilM

01-21-2007, 08:23 AM

Have a look here: www.carboncopyuk.com

I got mine in an auction, so it was cheaper than his list prices.

Having come from boats, where weight is not of a premium and several layers of cloth are the norm, it seems a little flimsy, but it's not and the finish is excellent.

Neil

npm108

01-27-2007, 02:52 PM

Thought I'd add to this Corona thread, being a non US based Corona flyer. Got mine from Mike Roffee, that guy has sorted out loads of people. Mine didnt say stock for very long and now has a mix of chopper 1 and BT upgrades though in hind sight I wouldn't do the upgrades again, like anything else you get sucked in!!

But it will become a CP machine in the next couple of weeks so i guess the upgrades will pay off. Its a shame that Bret at Chopper-1 decided to call it quits, I have his Delrin Crutch, Titanium Boom, Delrin boom mount, gearbox and rear fin, his very nice landing gear and battery holder and the delrin follower.

I would say its powered by a Mega 16/15/3 but it seems its not and could be /4 thanks to the recent help from Steve.

Currently running on 8 Cell GP3300 packs but my 3S should be in hand Monday evening.

It's a durable machine :)

cmaxim

01-27-2007, 03:12 PM

Welcome to HeliTown npm108.
Chinda

swatson144

01-27-2007, 03:14 PM

npm108 welcome to heli town! You have good taste pls poke a couple 640 X 480 pics in here some where. I'm dyin' to see more coronas.

With the CP upgrades you'll have one much like my flying buddy Ricks. He parallels 2 8c 3S 2000 mAH packs one on each side (cheek) I cut him some ply to cover the hole in the nose and leave a place to hang the packs. It flys well.

Steve

npm108

01-28-2007, 01:25 AM

Hi,

Thanks for the welcome. Will post some pics later on today, currently seeing which canopy to get. Like the CF Eolo style shown by Neil.

Steve, what flight times does Rick get with his two packs at 4000mah?

Nick

swatson144

01-28-2007, 03:44 AM

He mentioned 8mins but I have no idea what is left in reserve. On my Freestyle (fancy CP corona) I get 8 mins on 6s 2100 mAH (2x 2100 in series) with ~25% left.
How are you gonna power your CP conversion?

Steve

npm108

01-28-2007, 08:23 AM

How about 8C 3S 3850mah Lipo's?? Or will that not do the trick. Planning on using the stock 120 blades for now then maybe Rex 335 Pro Woodies.

Pics posted in flight journal.

swatson144

01-28-2007, 08:59 AM

Those batteries will do the job but your mega 16-15-X is woefully inadequate. I loaned Rick a big feigao 540 XL ( I think 8turn) motor which is what he is running until he moves to a 6S setup. The feigao is dirt cheap and works well on 3s 2550 KV 1/8" shaft so the corona bits fit. 3mm screws at 25.4 mm spacing so it's a drop in. You'll be using about 250w to hover @ 2550 rpm. I just finished a data log on my FS hovering yours should be about identical as it sounds like the frame is about the only difference at this point.

It's hard to find a big motor ~2500 KV without a 5mm shaft.

I've been keeping a low HS because of the 12$ 365mm blades I'm using. I think the 120 blades will cause too much heli damage in a mishap Rick has also switched over to the BP explorer blades another inexpensive and better choice are the QJ EP-8 blades 26$ a set.

Steve

npm108

01-28-2007, 10:13 AM

Hi Steve,

Thats weird everyone was saying how great the Corona is on 3S but you have to use the 16/15/4 or you run too high a head speed with the 15/3. And on 4S its even better? I'm lost?!

Don't want to do 3D for now (would just wreck the heli) so its basic Sport flying for me, FF and figure 8's etc.

Nick

NeilM

01-28-2007, 10:24 AM

Nick, I bought Steve's spare Corona. It is set up with a 16-15-3 and a Phx 25 ESC, and I am running 2200mah 3s lipos in it, no trouble.

Steady hovering (which is about all I can do at present) results in a cool lipo pack and warm motor. The motor is fitted with two heat sinks and it is currently 5 to 6 degrees over here, I am also running without a canopy. However, even if it were much warmer and the canopy was fitted, I doubt that anything would get terminally hot, not unless I was doing mega climb outs for the whole session.

Neil

npm108

01-28-2007, 10:34 AM

Hmm what pinion are you running on the motor? Standard 9T? That would give you approx 2498rpm head speed at full, anything over 2000rpm on a stock setup is not recommended, or so I was told!

I desp. need to tach my head and see whats going on.

NeilM

01-28-2007, 10:44 AM

Yup 9t, but I am only at half throttle, or a little under, in a hover.

Steve will give you the real technical stuff, as he built it.

Neil

ps Don't yet have a tacho.

swatson144

01-28-2007, 11:13 AM

Hey Nick, When you go CP you really need a bigger motor the Mega 16-15 series is good to about 300W depending on your HS you'll be pulling more than 200W (at ~1500g) just to hover compared to about 110W with a belt drive corona Then again at the weight of your FP it's closer to 160W.

The FP corona is great on 3s 150g of battery compared to 500g on a 8 cell stick pack. So you can have a 350g instant diet. In a nut shell a 1350g heli with stick packs will weigh 1000g with a 3S 2100mAH and need only about 3/4 the wattage to do the same thing and be much more sprightly.

My CP gets a whole different power train and weighs in at ~1435g with 6S lipo (as mentioned before mine is a Freestyle which is nothing more than a full tilt BTCP corona http://www.helitown.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611 ). It needs about 600W for reasonable flying. I could get 600W by pulling ~55A on 3s or pulling ~28A on 6s or anywhere in the middle or beyond I chose 6s as it was most practical for me.

I don't know about too high a HS on 3000KV lets see assuming a hyperdrive 3000rpm/v * 11.1V * 11t / 120t =3025 max possible * .8 = ~2500 as the most you are likely to see at 100% throttle. 2500 is pretty tame and if the efficiency is up to 90% you may see ~2800 rpm which isn't outrageous (some 120 blades cavitate at 2600 while others can go near 3K but I assume you aren't going CP to run FP blades :D ). If you didn't get the thrust bearings with your head you'l want to start out at about 85% on the throttle curve at 1/2 stick and go up from there to keep it lower.

I think you'll find that you will be hovering around 200W and anything much more than hovering the 300w 16-15 will get very hot. A hard climb on a stock corona can pull ~450W and a cp can easily push 1000W which could be an >80A burst. The FP gets a cooling off coasting period and the cp will still be pulling near 200W.

Here's the graph I did today just hovering and doing slow piros etc very mild flying with the freestyle it is on 6s so the amps for 3s will be double but it should be very much what you can expect just hovering. Weight as graphed 1435g

Steve

npm108

01-28-2007, 11:50 AM

I still need to learn about all this stuff, gets way too technical for me!!! What I'd like to do is use my existing motor or the 16/15/4 I bought second hand (could be I end up with two of the same motors, depending on my mystery X spec). In any case I reckon I should send my motor back to Mega in the Czech republic and see what they say.

Hopefully with 13T, 4-4 and the 16/15/4 on 3S I should be okay to progress in ability, but then looks like a motor change. What would you advise Steve? I could always switch to Outrunner and change the Hyperdrive.

Nick

swatson144

01-28-2007, 11:54 AM

And just for comparison a FP corona on 3s weighing in at ~1000g. You can see that it runs about 2k HS with 4/4 grips. I've tried 2/2 and liked the increased cyclic but a boom strike and the boom was toast (in your case the blades would be toast Nick)

Steve

swatson144

01-28-2007, 12:18 PM

Hopefully with 13T, 4-4 and the 16/15/4 on 3S I should be okay to progress in ability, but then looks like a motor change. What would you advise Steve? I could always switch to Outrunner and change the Hyperdrive.

Nick

Man there are so many variables. A well designed power plant is pretty easy to do but in my case I have other helis that use 3S ~2100 lipos so they were always gonna be around. 6S (2x 3s 2100 packs in series) was a no brainer, or else I'd have another 500$ tied up in say 5s lipos. You may have some other mitigating circumstances like an abundance of large 2S then you could shoot for a 4S setup. I like my helis light some people like them heavy even after they get proficient. you seem like you have the idea. kv and proper gearing combined with getting the power (watts) balanced against AUW and factor in what you have on hand subtract the "penny wise pound foolish" factor and you pretty much come up with what is best for your uses. 8) pound wise it don't make much sense to build around 60$ worth of batteries if you don't have another reason for keeping them. Alternately if you have enough parts you replaced to make a stock corona then 3s on the stock and 6s on the CP may make a lot of sense, especially if you think you might like a mini like a trex x400 soon. I fly 4 helis on the same 8 packs :wink: .

If you switch to an outrunner you don't need to change the hyperdrive. The freestyles ship with the 120t hyperdrive vice the orbit. You just need the pinion to suite.

Steve

Steve

npm108

01-29-2007, 09:32 AM

How would the 450TH fair on my set-up as a replacement motor? I will have two identical 3S 8C 3850 packs if need be.

swatson144

01-29-2007, 10:01 AM

That's still a 300W motor and does well on a stock FP Corona or a 750g mini CP. It won't last long in a 1500g CP Corona. Every one pretty much goes to at least a 540 long can, orbit, or similar. Mostly the proper KV orbit to run the voltage you want and you can't go wrong. I'll see if I can dig up the Feigao (hacker knockoff) Rick is running on a PHX-45. He knows he'll need to replace the power system as 45A isn't gonna be enough on 3S but he is still flying mild.

I'm waiting on a HV-45 to come back from CC for repair and Rick was kind enough to tell me to buy another and he'll take it for his. So I did. He has already paid for it so he's using my motor and I'm using his ESC :lol:

Steve

swatson144

01-29-2007, 10:14 AM

It's a 54084-10L with 1/8" shaft.

http://www.feigao.com/sdp/85838/4/cp-102738.html for data sheet

It looks like this compared to a 400LF Trex motor.

http://helitown.com/forum/files/motor_comparison_121.jpg

Steve

npm108

01-29-2007, 10:41 AM

Was looking at the datasheets, whilst I can work out headspeed, how does one pick a motor. kv is one factor but does one need to look a max amps? Is there a guide perhaps Steve?

swatson144

01-29-2007, 11:22 AM

Max amps is just a part of max power (watts). Watts are what we are concerned with. It normally requires estimated 100W per kilogram to hover a heli. (varies pretty wildly -20% to +100% due to HS, airfoil, etc) you want any error on the overpowered side. Where better to have a little extra weight than the motor.

So if we look at the stock corona I posted a chart on (we have data to verify) 1Kg/ 11.1*100w/kg=9A I was drawing an average of 10.81 in flight so not too far off.

The FS 1.435kg /22.2V * 100W =6.46A in actual hovering I was at 10.35 average. with crappy high drag narrow chord blades so that sounds fair.

That's just an estimation method.

Once you have a ball park figure on what you need then begins the compromises. It really helps when people have been there before you so they can say "yeah that motor is OK for hovering but you'll soon find it bogging in mild sport flying" If you have something in hand that is sub marginal it isn't near as bad as going out and buying it. Just use it and replace as needed. What really sucks is an overall boneup and having to redo the whole power system. I always try to plan for a little "future proofing" and if there isn't too much difference in price, size, and weight I go bigger than needed. Heck I'd have stuck a HV-85 in my FS if it wasn't sooo much bigger/heavier as the price alone wasn't that much worse.

Steve

npm108

01-30-2007, 06:17 AM

Hmm I'm sort of getting this, but I apologise for being kinda slow! I have KC's Power System sheet and have managed to get it working though not super clued up how to interpret the data.

If we say my heli weighs 1100g with no batts, and I want to use 3S packs because that's what I have, how do I back track it all.

If we say at 1400g my heli would be drawing 12.62A running on 3S at hover, I can see I'm fine for my ESC and know my motor can do up to 30amps.

Stepping up the voltage increase the headspeed unless the pinion/gearing is adjusted and at this stage don't really want to go beyond 3S packs, maybe 4S due to cost.

I suppose I could put 2 x 3S packs in series for 6S, but then I guess I would have to change ESC?

If W = VxI then 11.1x12.62 = 140W?

So then why wouldn't a 300W motor be sufficient, or more to the point how do we calculate the W needed for peak power?

I don't know whether it would be easier to say what's the best motor for my setup, based on my heli weight, the CC45, 3S packs and intended CP setup.

Also would I have to change to the Outrunner Orbit hyperdrive as everyone seems to do this when they fit an Orbit etc.

A very confused Nick! -sorry!

swatson144

01-30-2007, 07:31 AM

Not slow at all. better to get opinions and experiences so better to make your own decisions

If we say at 1400g my heli would be drawing 12.62A running on 3S at hover, I can see I'm fine for my ESC and know my motor can do up to 30amps.

Very correct! for hovering and sff. I probably wasn't as clear as I should have been in one of the previous posts. If you own the gear already then run it until it proves to be inadequate. If you are barely beginning then it'll serve for several months as you get a handle on FF. I was mainly saying previously that when buying the power plant you want to make sure it exceeds minimum requirements so you don't have to buy again.

The 30A part is kinda misleading as you'd need to know the V in this case since we know it is a 300W motor it must of been 10V (9.6V).

Stepping up the voltage increase the head speed unless the pinion/gearing is adjusted and at this stage don't really want to go beyond 3S packs, maybe 4S due to cost.

I suppose I could put 2 x 3S packs in series for 6S, but then I guess I would have to change ESC?

If W = VxI then 11.1x12.62 = 140W?

So then why wouldn't a 300W motor be sufficient, or more to the point how do we calculate the W needed for peak power?

I understand cost is always a factor. In your case I'd run what I have for a while and then consider 6S with an orbit 15-18 on 6s 15T pinion you'll have gobs of power and not much additional weight plus not have to buy the orbit drive so that's a big chunk of the ESC there. Just a thought for pondering.

W for peak power. That's sorta like asking HP peak in a car if it takes 30HP to go 30mph is 60 HP enough? The thing about BL motors is driving them past their rated wattage no longer provides more power but only heat. The stator is magnetically saturated at that point so the field strength no longer increases ergo no additional power. So you need to make sure you have enough power on tap to exceed your flying needs and get you out of trouble when needed. I'd say sustaining 3x hovering is minimal when purchasing. It's a compromise too buying a huge heavy motor with way excessive power at 200g heavier isn't good but picking up an extra 25g over marginal power and having great power is good.

I don't know whether it would be easier to say what's the best motor for my setup, based on my heli weight, the CC45, 3S packs and intended CP setup.

IMO something with the same specs as that feigao would be best to keep what you have, you may find a long can vice XL that has the same specs but the weight isn't that much difference. It is what I bought with the same intentions. Unlike the motors the PHX-45 will deliver peaks of 60A and be happy with it. So a 600W or greater motor is not out of the question as long as the weight is reasonable. If you are gonna hover around for a while then run what you have and research the hackers and other brands make a list and keep an eye out for a good deal if you don't want a feigao. As mentioned before finding one with a 1/8" shaft is a chore but you can always buy a 5mm pinion.

Steve

Steve

npm108

01-30-2007, 11:07 AM

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the info. Had a look at the pricey Hackers and am guessing its the B50-10L or C50-10L that are similar to the Feigao but both are rated at 2.0 Io(A) and B50 2415/v C50 2436/v

They are both 5mm shafts and every website has the 54084-10L on 5mm shaft, so not sure whether the 1/8" was a special?

I believe Matt was doing 5mm pinions for the Hyperdrive V2. But with an Orbit 15-18 you would def need the 4:1 outrunner Hyperdrive, because thats only 840kv

How would Mike Roffee be at trying to source a Feigao on a 1/8" shaft, wouldn't mind giving it a go if I can still run it with my CC PHX-45 and 3S Lipo's. What pinion would be needed for the 10L on 3S?

Nick

swatson144

01-30-2007, 03:03 PM

Thanks for the info. Had a look at the pricey Hackers and am guessing its the B50-10L or C50-10L that are similar to the Feigao but both are rated at 2.0 Io(A) and B50 2415/v C50 2436/v
Probably why I don't own any Hackers :) .

Yeah on the orbit you'd need either the higher voltage or you wouldn't find a pinion big enough (nor have room for it if you did)

I don't know you could email Mike and ask about the feigao. I think mine was like 70$ new from a buggy shop. I can't find the invoice and can't remember where.

"54084" feigao in google turned up 10 pages maybe from a place you won't get hit with brokerage fees.

Steve

swatson144

01-30-2007, 04:41 PM

OK check this out maybe 50$

https://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4187

The pick says 2048KV but the text says to ignore the pic it is a 2779KV and looks the same.

2779 * 11.1 *11 / 120 = ~2870 rpm so you'll likly see around 2500 rpm HS later you can put the 13T on and run Gov high @ 80% and it should be pretty nice locked in at 2675 rpm with some room to go either way.

Just a thought. Probably best to let the dust settle a little and have some more lookin around. Though from where I'm sitting it looks pretty good. The down side is it's an XL vice L can so you pick up 90g. There has to be a 10L some where.

steve

npm108

02-04-2007, 02:07 AM

Hi,

I'm wondering how a BTCP Corona could compare with a Trex 450 or even something like the Dragonus.

I have a CP head on the way from Matt, and will be running an Orbit 15-18, Orbit Hyperdrive and initially 3S ending with 4S.

As the base of my heli isn't light, with Delrin hop-ups and Titanium boom etc, I'm not expecting it to be a radical 3D machine. Just looking for a sporty CP machine.

Am I going to be okay sticking with this or do I need to be looking at Rex/Dragonus.

Ideally I'd like to end up with:

Esky CP2 for flying at the indoor gym (already own this)
Corona in BTCP guise for flying anywhere outside

?? Perhaps a Swift for a larger EP machine when its too windy for the Corona? The EP Trex's or T/T are too expensive on batts etc for me at the moment.

Raptor 30, will maybe stretch it to a 50 in due course, but am restricted to flying this at the local field.

Would appreciate your thoughts.

NeilM

02-04-2007, 02:33 AM

What about converting the Rap to electric, as the price of lipos come down or Li-Ion / Emoli cells become more available.

That is part of my thought process.

Neil

swatson144

02-04-2007, 06:31 AM

I have a freestyle which is a hopped up CP Corona with emphasis on keeping the weight up high for roll rates. My friend has a CP corona built on a blade crutch. Both are excellent machines.

We added some ply to Ricks to fill in the holes and get his packs up on the cheeks of the crutch. One on each side 2x 2000 mAH 3S1P run as 4000mAH 3S2P. We copied my FS settings over to his 9chps from my campac so we were running the same setup and his is indeed slightly more stable than mine with a CB of about 3/4" (estimated, and my mixing arms are more radical) lower. Neither have any sign of low slung pendulum action and would probably 3D just fine if we were capable.

I think you'll be just fine sticking with what you have for a very long time. Lay up a stock of 365mm 12$ woodies and have fun. The stock tail on yours may prove to be a problem later. Let me know by PM when you have enough stock parts to build a stock corona and I'll email you the plans to make an improved stock crutch to put your hand-me-downs on.

Did you notice the Bzerk Matt is selling over on Ezone? 1000$ with a orbit, Jazz, etc Quick calculation came up with 600$ used price on the gear alone. Add the cost of the tail and you'd be almost there on gear alone. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634701 Figure if you are about to go deep in pocket for gear it may be an option. That's how we wind up with so many helis :lol:

Steve

npm108

02-04-2007, 07:42 AM

Neil,

Converting to Electric is certainly something to consider, though would still be nice to keep a gasser. That's why I was thinking about a Swift, pretty cost effective.

Saw Matt's post, but to be honest want a mainstream production heli rather than something exotic where parts aren't readily available and pricey, so that's what would put me off the Bzerk.

For the time being I need save up a bit again and enjoy what I have. Won't convert to CP until I'm comfortable with it in FP guise and we'll see how it goes with the Raptor.

Should be able to do a stock Corona fairly soon, thanks for the offer on the crutch.

swatson144

04-13-2007, 07:47 PM

I had a pretty disgusting flight of 4 packs through the Corona this AM. Simply convinced me it was time to put some work in it. Bad untunable vibes etc.

My buddy Rick bought us some tube from www.onlinemetals.com (great place I buy most of my material there). So having 10' of .4375X.065 tubing 6061 T6 on hand I made a boom >3x thickness of the factory boom (.020 wall). That's been tested and works well. If you are tail heavy already there is no real point in considering it, unless you can balast forward.

I noticed that I had a lot of slop where the feathering shaft goes through the center hub. After ripping it down I found the "new" hub I recently installed was worn slam out. Sticking the F shaft in I could deflect it by 5 degrees. No other spares on hand. So I drilled it .147 and stuck a .148 x .125 X.62 sleeve in it.

The combination of those got me back in the air flying smooth, vibe free and fun.

While the wind was up mid day I also worked on something I'd been wondering about. It always seemed when I lifted the corona by the blades the end of the F plate with the linkage hole in it would flex more than the solid end. I see no way that that could improve flight. So I reinforced a spare feathering plate with G10. http://www.jacobwatson.com/images/dads%20images/heli/Corona/feathering%20plate%20both%20Thumb.JPG They are both the same length. Cutting template and instructions are available in 1:1 PDF at http://www.jacobwatson.com/corona.htm. I haven't had a chance to test it yet but will soon. I just can't see how it can suck though.

Steve

NeilM

04-14-2007, 12:22 AM

That's interesting what you say about tail vibes. I was watching my Corona in flight the other day....well I have to do something in a 10 minute hover..anyway, I noticed a lot of the vibes are generated from the tail.

I will have to see if there is an online metal supplier over here, somehow, I doubt it :(

Neil

swatson144

04-14-2007, 04:06 AM

I'm sorry Neil that wasn't very clear. With the belt drive any slight bow in the boom tends to let the teeth on the belt rub together. That is where some/most of my vibes were coming from. With a wire drive they are quite forgiving of a slight bow. After removing the old boom there was only about 3mm of bow. Besides you'd have to fabricate smaller guide bushings. It was those teeth on the timing belt skipping over each other that drove me nuts.

The best way to get rid of vibs on a corona is to take a 4" piece of electrical tape and place it mid length on a blade. If it got better try moving it out/in some. Worse try the other blade. Odds are really good that the blade on the side where the subrotor link hole is needs weight. The hole isn't that big a deal but the F shaft runs all the way out to the lead/lag screw on the other side also.

Steve

swatson144

05-28-2007, 10:56 AM

It's been common knowledge that I have mixed feelings about the BT tailbelt drive. I like the quiet but hate the fuss. I finally decided to do something about it.

The stock had 10t rear and 28t front pulley which sped the tail up and caused me issues with the larger LMH 120 tail blades. This caused me to go to the smaller LMH 110 blades and the loss of the authority I gained. Another downside was the little 10t pulley only had 4 teeth in mesh and would cause the belt to skip unles it was run horrible tight. and as mentioned a slight bow would let the belt teeth rub and cause a bad vibe.

In answer I mounted a 42t pulley up front and a 12t in the back. This gives me 5t in mesh, a 3.5:1 ratio for more tail authority and a little extra distance between belt teeth.

Winds are only 18mph so I took it out for a test. Holy piro rates! with the looser belt my motor landed 20F cooler, and the ole corona is back to being a real joy to fly hard.

Rick

06-01-2007, 01:00 PM

I've been playing with flight sims and gotten "the bug" from learning to fly a Picco Z micro around my living room. I wanted something that can fly outside with a little wind. After some recommendations from Mr. Moth, and seeing Corona vids where someone borks the whirlybird into a tree, then straightens the blades and keeps flying, I'm sold.

Gonna have to raid the local LHS next week.

swatson144

06-01-2007, 03:07 PM

WhoooH Hoo! I am someone!
Who'd a thunk it.
Steve

swatson144

08-22-2007, 02:45 PM

Well I got my Corona back to ready status after using it as a part donor. Seems I needed a few items at once and the Corona had them all so parts taken to keep the BPE up and get the H550 in the air about a month ago. The GY401 went on the H550 and the s9650 on the BPE.

Today the Corona gets to wear Rick's Eflite gyro and my franken HS-81 MG Digital. Test flight went well the tail was a little loose and wandered a bit but winds are ~12mph and there really wasn't much time spent on setup other than assy.

Steve

swatson144

12-05-2007, 06:24 AM

The corona had become a parts donor again since the last post and is back together now. It's wearing a ICG 400 and 9650 on tail, now. Just ran a trial with 3S A123 cells and it was pretty anemic, the lipo alarm was screaming the whole time. The PHX45 is rigged out with a BEC so I think I'll stick 4S on it. Looks like it can still share packs with my Hurricane 550.

3S lasted 5:33. I think it hit soft LVC before going MT. The Lipo alarm was screaming from lift off and was annoying. Same pitch as the mother-in-law, and nails on a chalkboard. By anemic I mean it had very little "pop" but was great for smooth flying practice. Near the end the tail got a little drifty which is probably another sign of LVC.

Steve

Mindless23

03-27-2009, 01:26 PM

Hi, allow me to introduce myself. I'm Mindless. nuff said. lol

Interestingly enough, I was introduced to this hobby about a month ago when my buddy and I picked up a couple of 60 dollar Air Hogs heli's at walleyworld, quickly learned how to fly the simple little things, and we were so hooked that we had to take it to the next step. I admit that I now feel I have jumped into this rather hastily, and I do not want my second purchase to be the same. I was looking for the most power and versatility(that also looked cool ;)) for my buck, and I found the Skyartec Wasp v3 at bananahobby and immediately ordered the darned thing. I have been messing with it, lurking this site, and learning what i can over the last 3 days, and already I have broken my fixed pitch axle around a dozen times and gone through a half bottle of locktite superglue, and melted the gears of one of the cheapest servos I have ever seen. All this without ever breaking out of GE... lol. Although this is mainly due to the fact that I live in north Idaho, and there is still multiple feet of snow just about everywhere, so no outdoor flying just yet :).

So, now that you know my story, time to get to the heart of the matter. I want a better heli that is more stable, and will promote my growth as a pilot without breaking the bank to replace parts every single time I plug in the battery. As far as i can tell at the moment, the Corona is the best choice when looking at reliability and durability.

What are your expert thoughts on this, and also. what would be my best option for getting new electronics to put in this wasp frame. i love the heli, but i need reliable parts, I'm a little scared to put this thing in the air after opening up that servo to find the main gear melted into a teardrop hanging from the motor...

Any advice you guys can provide would be much appreciated!

P.S. that bananahobby dot com is incredibly overpriced on their spare parts, they wanted 43 dollars for that 5g servo, but i found it at another site for 10.. lol.

swatson144

03-27-2009, 03:34 PM

Are you talking about the LMH corona? Or is there something else calling itself Corona?

Steve

Mindless23

03-27-2009, 04:02 PM

Yes, the LMH. On their main site they offer a super starter package or the like for ~619.95 USD. The package looks great, with many additional accessories and tools that would be quite usefull for someone starting out like myself. But I for the life of me cannot find that package for sale anywhere, including Lite Machine's 'Shopatron' page with all their parts and accessories.

swatson144

03-27-2009, 04:22 PM

I happen to like them things also. I've still got lots of parts but not a whole heli right now. You won't find one anywhere because they are so danged great as a trainer. LMH has been concentrating on military products and haven't produced Coronas in a couple years. They have licensed Multiplex to use their design. http://www.multiplexusa.com/models/kits/funcopter.php but I haven't actually worked with one. YET.

Mindless23

03-27-2009, 04:37 PM

Good info. Thanks man! I hope to find one on the black market that includes some extra goodies. The hunt is on!

BTW: I was trying to find a way to link this to the corona sticky thread, since i plan on being a proud owner n such. Maybe one of you who knows this site better can hook it up, thanks. ;)

swatson144

03-27-2009, 05:17 PM

It's moved.

I used to pick them up every so often and fly them until another came up ...usually I'd find someone wanting a great beginner heli and I'd sell it and just cover my cost. Unfortunately I haven't been seeing any in the last year or so, if I have other people have wanted them more than I. It's really pretty much a timeless heli.

Steve

Mindless23

03-28-2009, 07:16 PM

Well its done, just ordered a like-new LM Corona on ebay for a buy now price of $350 USD. Call it an impulse buy if you will, but I just couldn't resist, I HAD to get my hands on such a revered piece of machinery.

Time to order a battery or two me thinks...

Mindless

basic

03-28-2009, 09:22 PM

Steve, what heli was it that you flew into the tree and straightened the blades and flew it some more? I remember a video and for some reason was thinking it was a corona....

Mindless23

03-28-2009, 09:31 PM

BTW.. What battery should I buy? lol Seller says the motor is Mulitplex Permax. I suppose I need to get clarification on what model exactly, or just wait until I receive it and see for myself. :P

Any thoughts on this? Is there one size of battery I can get and be safe with before I know the exact specifications?

Mindless

basic

03-28-2009, 09:58 PM

I don't know what size or what esc your heli has, but you can get away with buying something besides what they say to. If you can give some more details, we can probably find something for ya.

Mindless23

03-28-2009, 10:19 PM

According to the seller: "Speed Controller is a Castle Creations 35. Gyro is GWS PG-03. Receiver is a Futaba 8 channel FP-R-1380DP."

basic

03-28-2009, 10:32 PM

If it's a brushed motor, I have no idea. If it's brushless, you could get a 3s lipo, just make sure it's capable of 40 amp or so continous. Steve will probably chime in in the morning, and he'll be able to tell you i'm sure. If a 3s 2100 mah or so will work, hobbycity has some cheap decent lipos, check out the zippy line, i hear a lot of people have good luck with them.

Mindless23

03-28-2009, 10:44 PM

Brilliant, and yes it is indeed a brushless. I have inquired further into its specification, but have yet to get a response.

basic

03-28-2009, 10:55 PM

no problem. Just to make sure - if you have get lipos you'll have to have a compatible charger.

swatson144

03-29-2009, 04:13 AM

Yep that was a Corona that hit the tree.

I always used 3S lipo mounted on the R cheek. I generally just used 2000mAH but it'll like anything up to 5000mAH just fine seems like I got about 12 min max but only flew for 7-10. Like basic said the 2100s will do fine.

Steve

Mindless23

03-29-2009, 11:08 AM

Excellent, thanks guys. The only thing bothering me now is the fact that it seems every battery I look at has a different type of connector, and I have no idea what type the Castle Creations ESC comes with... is this a setback or should it not matter to someone with a bit of soldering and splicing skills?

Edit:

Just got word from the seller, the motor is model BL-480/4D.

basic

03-29-2009, 02:41 PM

changing the connectors on the battery is no real problem if you have soldering skills. Most around here use ultra deans plugs, and they seem to be an industry norm. I personally use power-poles, as I find them easier to plug in and unplug, and the polarity of a plug is easily changed. Bullet connectors are also very nice to use. A lot of the guys around here are switching to traxxas connectors on all of their RC cars, but our helis require more power than a rc car....of course those traxxas connectors are rated pretty high if I recall correctly.

Mindless23

03-29-2009, 03:03 PM

Cool, I'm sure everything will be fine. And if there is a piece I need when it arrives then I merely have an excuse to head down to the LHS :)

Mindless

Mindless23

04-03-2009, 10:30 AM

Well I must say that I am quite displeased with HobbyCity/HobbyKing.com

I ordered that battery last Sunday and they still have yet to ship it...

The good news is that my Corona arrived this morning. Came with plenty of extra parts, so I got those all organized.(Looks like an angry GF just threw all the stuff that looked remotely related to the heli into a box and sold it, lol) Got quite a few allen wrenches and various small tools and screwdrivers. So all I need now is a battery and some halfway decent weather..

Gunna have the LHS overnight me a battery, but I'm wondering if I should still order the same one. Turns out that the motor is actually the BL 480/3D instead of the 4D as I was told. Does this change anything? Thanks!

Mindless

Edit:

The TX is a Futaba T6EXHP.

I'm looking for a pdf manual for it now, But this is quite a step up for me as far as TX goes, so any advice you guys have on this particular model would be helpful. Thank you much!

swatson144

04-03-2009, 12:29 PM

Congrats on scoring a great heli and a piece of the past! I'll always have warm regard for the Corona.

as far as the motor goes...your guess is as good as mine one place says (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJCK7) it's 1270kv which would be too slow for 3s and another place on the same site (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJCK1) says it's 4,180 which would be a little fast on 3S. I found right around 3000 kv to be about the best. either would work but you'd need both 4 degree grips on the former and one 3 and one 2 degree grip on the later (most likely). I've never ran a multiplex but I had great luck with a mega 16/15/3, astro 020, c50L, and a 2900 KV chinese motor. Both motors 3D and 4D were sold for the Corona so undoubtedly will work. While looking at them it looks like the 4 turn motor is 3200kv so I'd suspect the 3 turn is 4180 kv you'll want to lower the pitch some with it. That'll be ok because on FPs it just makes them more stable to have a higher HS.

You can set the Corona up as a heli (SWH1) or an airplane either way you want in that radio.

We need pictures, man pictures. Everybody loves a Corona or a ugly puppy they are cute. I've owned a few of them and probably will have another some time, when I stumble into one.

Steve

mtpenguin

04-03-2009, 12:55 PM

So, were you requesting picture of the Corona, or an Ugly Puppy? It wasn't clear......

B-)

Mindless23

04-03-2009, 01:09 PM

Yea.. Needless to say I was less than pleased with myself for having forgotten my camera today. But not to worry, I'll take some shots tonight when I get home.

Mindless

swatson144

04-03-2009, 01:45 PM

Hmmm whichever he recently got in the mail. If he got a new puppy also might as well put it in with the corona. ;)

Mindless asked a good Q via PM about the blade grips and I'll just put it in here as others might want an answer too.

The corona is a fixed pitch heli it's grips have various pitches built in. You'll often hear them referred to as 4 dot, 3dot etc. There is a dot for each degree of pitch built into the blade grips. One would think that you'd have to have 2 of the same on the heli but that's not the case. You can run one of each and when you lower the high blade to adjust tracking you have functionally split the difference. So a 3dot and a 2 dot give you 2.5 degrees of pitch. The blades themselves have an airfoil to produce lift but no pitch built into them.

Steve

mtpenguin

04-03-2009, 02:02 PM

Your right, I ~was~ curious about what you were talking about. It makes sense now. I would like to see a picture of those blade grips. And by 'dots', you mean more of a label, then an adjustment 'tick'. In other words, the grips themselves aren't adjustable from 1 to 3 dots, more the dots are a label stating how much pitch is in the grip as a whole, with the only way to change pitch by changing the entire grip itself.

B-)

Mindless23

04-03-2009, 02:16 PM

Brilliant. This heli looks like its had many a flight under its belt, so i think ill leave it as is for the time being. The current setup is 4 dots on one blade, 6 on the other.

swatson144

04-03-2009, 03:18 PM

Yup dots are marks here's a pic of one of my funnest fliers. You can see the 4 dots on the near grip. That leads me to having to admit I had a "moment" you can pretty much add a dot to everything I said above. I flew with 4/4 dots not 3 and 2. I did try 4 and 2 and really liked it but crash damage waas much more severe and few crashes were "unfold and fly". The manual calls for 4/6 dot grips. I had to correct this as it's coming back to me now. It's only been a couple years and I was sure I recalled correct. 1st thing to go!

I had cut out a CF flybar from 3mm CF to replace the plastic and reinforced the feathering plate with g10. That heli was very manueverable and a blast to fly. for comparison I added a stock setup about to be moved to one of my improved crutches with longer nose and CF motor mount.

Steve

mtpenguin

04-03-2009, 03:46 PM

That is an interesting looking machine for sure!

B-)

Mindless23

04-03-2009, 03:53 PM

Thanks for the pics Swatson, I'll be sure to take a few so you can see what im working with as soon as i get home here in about an hour.

Just wanted to add also that the manual for this baby is hilarious! If I had known there was a section titled: "Zen and the Art of Helicopter Maintanence" I would have picked one up just for that! lol

Mindless

swatson144

04-03-2009, 04:30 PM

There's a manual for these? Wow that'd been some important information a while back. :p

Actually there's 2 one is a tech manual on the heli and the other is an operators guide as best I recall

No matter what anyone says about me I always read the corrections when things don't work. Always! My grandfather actually complimented me by pointing out I do well at it, for a guy with the attention span of a plastic monkey banging the bongos on the rear deck of a Nash rambler as it rattles down the road.

Still waiting on the pictures..... :D

Steve

Mindless23

04-03-2009, 07:36 PM

Sorry, things arose...

Anyway, at long last.

My apologies for the quality, pics were taken on a phone.

Mindless23

04-03-2009, 07:44 PM

Continued...

Hope this helps. It appears to me that it was put together rather well, but I want the honest opinions of our local experts.

Mindless

swatson144

04-04-2009, 04:01 AM

Looks good. The PG03 probably needs to go or else you'll be needing someone who can fly to setup revo mix.

JR Voyager landing gear is a big improvement.

Steve

Mindless23

04-09-2009, 02:02 PM

Sorry it took me a bit to update on the recent happenings, but quite alot has gone down, lol.

The day after I posted last I went down to the LHS to show it off and acquire parts etc. The moment I walked through the door with that purple frame the store owner, from the furthest corner of the shop, stopped what he was working on and pointed at me yelling excitedly "That's a Corona!" Now, not sure if I mentioned this, but when I was still waiting for the heli to arrive, I asked this very person if they had ever heard of the lite machines corona, and if they knew anything about it. The answer was no. So needless to say I was quite surprised indeed when he came out from the back room with a big purple frame of his own. Probably the only other Corona in all of North Idaho. (mine was imported from Indiana :P)

Anyway, the guy was so happy to see a true Corona enthusiast, he offered to sell it to me with all the parts he could find for $150. I was going to immediately jump on this offer, but gave the option to my buddy who was with me and also trying to establish himself in this hobby. He took the offer and paid an extra $50 for a nice, brand new JR SX600 transmitter, since the dude was unable to find the original TX. Also, his includes a few upgrades such as metal gear servos, a much newer looking Astro 020(i think, ill get better specs and pictures later) brushless motor, which is actually much quieter than my multiplex. As well as a canopy, which I still lack.

I have now flown 3 packs through it, and its stable enough to do small hops and get a feel with the 'revo' setting 'ON' in the transmitter, and the gyro turned up over 70 percent. The first flight was somewhat a disaster, starting with some good hops and hovers, followed by a gust of wind and poor TX control leading to and out of control heli tumbling and spinning at about 60-80 feet in the air, ending with a 30-40 ft nose dive into the dirt. All I could see for a few seconds was a blast wave of dirt and mud and plastic bits of one of the blades being ejected from ground zero. Every single component that was velcro'd to the frame was lying in the mud(battery, ESC, and RX). But the next day I had it cleaned up and ready to go again, and both flights since then have had little to no controlled-crashes. This baby handles like a dream.

LOL, I need to mention here also that my buddy learned his first lesson in making sure your TX is properly programmed before doing anything like connecting the battery to the motor...(I have also found it useful to tighten down the motor to the frame away from the main gear when doing flight testing) The LHS owner had hastily put the servo connections in the wrong spots on the RX, and so the Heli was getting a constant 'full throttle' signal somehow, as the throttle was down on the TX. Anyway, the second he touched the battery cable to the motor it cycled up, right there in the middle of the living room. I jumped up from my seat and just started screaming "disconnect the battery! disconnect the battery! " over and over again as head speed reached 2000rpms and the heli began to pull away from his grasp, inching closer and closer to the entertainment center... After a few VERY long seconds he was able to unplug the battery cable, and we sighed in relief as the blades smoothly wound to a halt. Lesson learned.

And there's more, lol. We went back to he LHS yesterday on a whim. Out enjoying the day, flying as well as we could in the mild breeze, we decided we needed some parts and materials. It's about a 40 min drive from our neighborhood, so we don't get to go very often. Local my arse :P. So long story short, the guy offered me a JR 500T gyro minus the servo it came with for 80 bucks, and every single part he has for the corona(quite a large section of wall in the back actually) all for only 40 dollars.

This is such a great helicopter, and I have been quite fortunate in my acquisition of parts and materials to keep her running for years to come. And I even have a friend to learn it with me on the same bird! haha, I can't wait for the weekend to arrive!

LGBladebuster

04-09-2009, 05:07 PM

I just put a corona 120 on layaway at the LHS,(he is building one himself),and have an old 110 I bought years ago used that I have so far not fired up( I would like to convert it to electric),will be interested in any more installments you make,as only 4 channels are needed I will like use the 4 ch Hitek Focus 4 that came with the old unit,and a modern RX to start.
I have good luck outside with my CX2,and can land on a 10"by 10" folding table outside in a slight breeze,,hope that helps as a base to try the Corona.

Mindless23

04-09-2009, 07:37 PM

Nice bladebuster, sounds like you have that Blade figured out man. And congrats on the purchase of the 120. You won't be disappointed. ;)

Here's some pics of pack number 4 going through it about an hour ago.

Mindless

Mindless23

04-09-2009, 07:46 PM

But wait, there's more!

Mindless

Mindless23

04-10-2009, 03:28 PM

Ok, flight number 5 just went down a few minutes ago here at work. I have a pretty decent sized open area in the back, and once all the gawking clients were gone I started getting some good hover times. In fact, I hovered it for such a longer time than I ever have before that I notice the motor and ESC were quite hot. I could uncomfortably keep skin contact, so I know it couldn't have been too bad, but I am just wondering if this is an issue or not, the battery I am using on it at the moment was suggested by my LHS, and it is an Impulse Power 3s 2100maH 16C continuous discharge, $60 USD battery that i think i paid 40 bucks for. Lemme know what you guys see happening here, thanks!

Sry no pics this time, was just me. :P

Mindless

swatson144

04-10-2009, 04:21 PM

Not a problem for now. I'm thinking your description is like "fresh cup of coffee hot" like you could pick the cup up without the handle but really don't want to. You'll probably want to lower the pitch some before it gets hot out. I think you said you were running 4/6 grips? "course if it don't get much hotter it's still good.

Steve

Mindless23

04-13-2009, 11:08 AM

Thanks Steve, I think I have it figured out a little bit. All I have done is take it apart more than I had previously and oil everything that looked like it might enjoy a little oiling, with special emphasis on the ancient swashplate on this old bird. Seems to be much better now, and even hovers much better after I made some changes in the way the tail rotor was put together. I have much less rotation due to changes in throttle, although I have been unable to completely remove the rotation with the current gyro, but this has little hindrance upon my hovering ability, and merely gives me some good orientation practice. lol. Once I find a balance with the throttle however, she stays right in place. I was even able to get about a 5-7 second hover with no stick input. I was quite pleased to say the least.

I don't remember now if it was one of your posts Steve, but I think it was you mentioning something in the beginner threads about that moment when it all 'clicks' and makes sense. Well I had that moment Saturday afternoon when I was able to really get it dialed in, and perform a professional looking hover. Never before have I had so much scorn for the wind and rain. Both very common in our weather patterns here in North Idaho. 8-)

Here are a few more pics of my recent upgrades, CF training gear lasted me 3 flights, there went 14 bucks worth of CF... So now I'll give 4 dollar dowel setups from Home Depot a try. Quite a bit heavier, but I like the sturdiness of it. Also, I kinda jerry-rigged in a throwaway canopy my LHS gave me since he had no Corona canopies. Seems to work pretty well, and looks rather nice I think. Now if only it would stop raining I could test it out...

Mindless

LGBladebuster

04-13-2009, 09:52 PM

I like that canopy,when I manage to get able to fly the corona in reasonable fashion I'd like to go to a scale body,would also like to find an electric conversion for the old 110 I've had for years,the wooden crutch ,and everything else is super clean,so it wasn't flown much before I picked it up,though I noticed the layout is different than the corona,the little snarly beast in the rear,VS the motor up front.

Mindless23

04-15-2009, 09:05 PM

Well, ran it again this morning and she was quite hot, so I did take the pitch down to '4' before flying her again. Later in the afternoon, with the pitch lowered, I got some really fantastic hovering times. Upon bringing her down for a landing and quick inspection I noticed that the ESC had gotten so hot that the plastic wrapping around it had completely melted away on the top side... :(

Could there be another factor I'm not seeing here? Perhaps the motor pinion is too tight against the main gear? I did run a piece of paper through the teeth to make sure it wasn't tight enough to rip the paper.

Mindless

Edit:

By the way, Bladebuster, that canopy is already toast, lol. But the good news is my LHS has a bunch of extra TRex 450xl transparent canopies they are practically giving away, and they fit even better. ;)

swatson144

04-16-2009, 03:36 AM

Mindless my guess would be that it is the BEC circuit on the ESC that is getting hot. I'd usually run a separate BEC to help keep that from happening.

That 020 runs hot but I've never manged to hurt one.

Steve

Mindless23

04-16-2009, 08:38 AM

Well, the 020 is on my buddies machine, and he has yet to run it long enough for us to see if it gets hot. lol

It's the multiplex 480/3D that is getting rather warm on me, but i think that is not really an issue.

I definitely need to protect that ESC from further harm tho, how would I go about putting a separate BEC on there?

swatson144

04-16-2009, 01:48 PM

You buy a switching BEC and install it per instructions. I used a park bec (http://www.dimensionengineering.com/ParkBEC.htm) which is small and easy to install. I've also used the hextronic Chinese cheapy. My larger electrics get a Kool ubec. Don't worry much about the amerage as even a 1.25A switcher will put out more power than a 3A linear.

Steve

Mindless23

04-19-2009, 12:14 AM

Since my buddy and I are most likely the only two Corona fliers in north Idaho, our LHS gave us their entire stock of LMC parts for $40 total...

Needless to say I am a very loyal customer. ;)

Mindless23

05-08-2009, 11:42 AM

Well, so much has happened in the last two weeks. I have been flying this thing so much that I hardly have time to get online anymore! lol

TBH my bird is grounded for the time being, as I stripped the teeth from the gear on the tail drive wire, and until just this morning that was the one part I didn't have in my possession. The reason for this is that I just received my latest purchase. Another Corona!:D

This one is quite a step up from the one I have been enjoying. The builder tells me that he has put well over $1100 into this baby to make it fly as smoothly as he possibly could. And as usual, many a spare part was included. As well as all of the original paperwork IN THE ORIGINAL BOXES! Guy even held onto the gyro and motor boxes. lol He even left his invoice for the purchase of the 'super starter combo' in the construction manual.

I am so happy with this purchase, I can't wait to get all his nice custom painted parts swapped out with disposable bits and get this bird in the air. I am assuming my LiPo's will be fine, but I will need a charger for the three 8-cell NiMH batteries he included methinks.

Pics for your enjoyment!

Mindless